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I'm going to go with ODdave on the idea of a DT-466. Go mid 80's to early 90's before all of the electronics are introduced. Probably similar in size and weight to the multifuel, parts are readily available locally.. i'm sure there would be some fanangaling (24v electronics and possible...
I'm going to go with what the MANUFACTURER tells you to use... Sorta like when the manufacturer of a light fixture tells you to put a 40 watt bulb in a 40 watt light fixture. If your house burns down because the thing catches fire from a 100 watt bulb.... you're S.O.L.:razz:
I fired up my deuce a couple weeks ago... 15 degrees out. Manifold heater is disconnected, and I refuse to use ether. Took a good few minutes of on and off cranking and throttle but it fired... wasn't happy about it though. Just oredered a katz block heater for $30 shipped, that will be getting...
I just finished repacking the rear wheel bearings and replacing wheel seals in my deuce when I noticed the bottom right corner (If you are facing the truck) of the radiator is wet. Checked the coolant level, I was a gallon low. Does anyone have a recommendation on what to do? Spending +$700 for...
Billy Bobbed & Cessnatwin-
How much did that setup cost you? I'm looking to do the same to my truck.... do you have any part numbers or anything of the sort?
Thanks,
Brian
Give Napa a shot... primary fuel filter (part number 3511) runs $7.71 and the secondaries are (part number 3512) $9.29 a piece. Might be cheaper to buy them there, save on shipping. Napa filters are made by wix... from what I heard Wix had the gov't contract for filters... that could be heresay...
I have the fever...
66 Kaiser Jeep M35A2... the first two pictures are how I bought it; the rest are after a Krylon camo spray bomb on a Sunday afternoon!
Jake 0174... you have hit the nail on the head on all aspects of your reply, thank you very much. I have done front wheel seals and bearings in my 79 chevy k10 and an old chevy caprice, they were a piece of cake. The concept was easy to grab, as I was going through a Haynes manual. The TM was...
It was that time of the year to repack bearings and change a few leaky wheel seals. We completed all of that, our next step was to tighten the axle nut to set the wheel bearings into the races. The TM says to "tighten the nut until the wheel binds, then back off 1/8th of a turn". I had the nut...
I tried to insure my '68 Kaiser M35A2 through Geico and it was denied. I have 2 other vehicles insured through Geico (06 Impala and 79 K10) and got no help. They sent me to Geico Commercial and it was denied because I don't own a company. After that, they sent me to the company that underwrites...
M35a2
Thank you in advance for your hard work Carnac:
1966 M35A2
Stock #: 23200771616
Serial #: 4K1087
MFR #: 022514046
Cont #: DA20113AMC07241
This vehicle was purchased from GL at the Mechanicsburg, PA location.
Thank you once again!
I'm in the process of restoring a '79 Chevy K10 that had a ton of undercoat on the frame and cab... the propane torch and putty knife work well; it will come off in big chunks. If you end up taking it down to bare metal, I suggest the Chassis Saver paint. About $35 a quart, works wonders on bare...
Fellla's
Jared-
Marree here.... I'm buying Russ' here shortly; glad to be part of the club soon! If you need it hauled, call up to Klapec Trucking (marc lander) if Folino can't do it. Their prices are pretty decent from what I hear!
I'm going to be purchasing a '68 M35A2 deuce off of a friend here once the snow melts... shouldn't it be a class 8? I want to do regular registration so I can haul with it here and there... It would be nice to get away with the $75 classic/antique plates but the fine is not worth it!
-BMarree
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