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I find it useful to be able to steer, both during and after the pull. Pulling from the front dramatically reduces your ability to steer, and massively increases the strain on your steering mechanisms. Pulling from the rear focuses any lateral strain on the rear axle, without involving all that...

If you had a *really* clogged air filter, I can imagine that might result in a rich condition. Or perhaps it's running the wrong IP and/or injectors? Or perhaps there's a cat stuck in the air intake?

AZ screwed up my order again. The washer pump doesn't work on the reman I bought from them. Something's wrong with the clockwork used to drive the pump from the windshield wiper motor. Apparently the pump never did stop, it just ran the washer fluid tank dry. The guy promised to have a...

Stock configuration has 2 belts on PS, front one drives PS alone. Rear one drives both PS and A/C compressor. I'm not sure I understand your other question. Stock box has heater in right rear corner, with access panel on outside of the truck. Heater lives under the "bench" which you don't have.

I appreciate your taking the time to educate me on this. It's not my area of expertise. Yes, I know the welder is a short. Is it really a significantly different load than the starter on a 5 ton truck?

I have an M1010 with the Plan B Mod, with a 100A 24V alternator and a 160A 12V alternator, both Leece Neville. I'm not sure how they rate for reliability, but I've been lucky so far. I was thinking that the running engine minimized stress on all parts when jumping, welding, etc. The batteries...

I've not tried welding on the truck. I've removed the parts I needed to weld. If I did have to weld on the truck, I'd completely disconnect the batteries from all but the slave port. You definitely don't want welding current passing through your ground path. Whatever in that path doesn't get...

sorry. duplicate eliminated.

I did siphon by mouth. Tasted lovely. There's a reason my nickname is not "Grace". I blew and sucked on the hose. I could detect no leaks. The fluid flowed freely. It rained on the drive home today. Since I had the wipers going anyway, I tried the washer a few times. It worked! I had 4...

Both. I wouldn't do much without the alternators running.

Same reason you have a dial to adjust amperage on other welders. These batteries are rated for 1000 amps at 24V. That's a *lot* of juice! Of course, the wire in the welder limits the actual current flow to far less, but it's still too hot for many tasks. Keep in mind that novice welders like...

I flushed the hoses and tank. Fluid is fresh. I have no filter. When I unplug the input hose from the pump and lower it to a level below the tank, fresh fluid flows freely from the hose. I disconnected the output tubes, in case they are blocked. My problem is the pump. I will try priming it...

I keep a 3' length of stainless steel resistor for that purpose, it was part of an industrial heating element. I wired a slave cable plug for power. Works great!

My washer quit, so I tried the above. No luck. I replaced the wiper/washer with a reman from AZ. No luck. I disconnected the output hoses, so I'd see fluid squirt from the pump if it worked. It didn't. I pulled the input hose and lowered the end to check that washer fluid flowed freely...

This is the stock grill. OP seems to have emergency lights where I have the blackout light and 24V outlet.

Tire repair tools are also worth considering. You want to be able to patch a hole, replace a valve stem or a valve, break & set a bead, inflate a tire, etc. Tools & parts for this take up much less space & weight than a tire...

Maybe file this one under "stupid CUCV tricks". I considered a number of schemes for setting up a table. This approach proved simplest. I carry a backboard anyway. I mount it on the attendant's seat, using the seat belt and 2 lengths of parachute cord. It's as stable as most foldable camp...

Or you could go with a slightly taller box, with heat, A/C & lights that seats 9 or sleeps 4. :wink: I park in places where a roof rack would not be secure, so I lock my gear inside.

M1010 wiring is troublesome as designed. More troublesome is figuring out how previous owners modified it. If you eliminate the DUVAC and proceed with patience and the TMs, you can get it figured out and solid. Be aware that these batteries have a *lot* of juice, and can do serious damage. I...

Here are the switch panels, jump box as recommended elsewhere, and passenger side floor. I had to remove the radio mount in that floor in order to treat rust beneath it. I used a grinder to grind away the welds. I haven't needed the jump box since we did the Plan B Mod and put in serious...