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Yes, I will try to make the 'modules' fit over the permanently mounted fifth wheel. I'm not sure yet if I can make it work that way, but the idea is to widen the subframes on the modules so they fit around the outside of the fifth wheel.
There will be two ISO twist lock mounts with the standard...
Great observation! I intentionally turned them that way, to show off the 'Made in USA' marks! Heck, it is hard enough to find anything anymore, that is made right here in the good ol' United States of America! I'm a firm believer in buying AMERICAN!!!! [thumbzup]
I use PPG DP90 Epoxy Primer...
Got it primered !
Here are a few up-date pics of the front "pan" and some detail shots of the cab mounts after applying the epoxy primer.
Hopefully tomorrow we can put the cab back on......:jumpin:
I did have some of the parts plasma cut: The two big 1/2" thick frame extension plates , the top plates for the body mounts with the holes and the plates for the tow shackles.
Yes, the Mk48 cab comes with a pneumatic throttle pedal, so I figured I might as well use it....
Well.....I'm sorry to disapoint you, but there are no "BIG METAL WORKING TOOLS/TOYS" around here. As far as fabricating goes here is my "equipment": I have a torch, a small plasma cutter, a 14" chop saw, some angle grinders, a big mag drill, a cordless drill, a mig welder, a couple of 20ton...
That's what I'm going to try to figure out for the "poll". Of course the more people are interested and the more "kits" I can produce the cheaper they get! :-D
That's a good idea about doing stages and I think I would also offer all the seperate parts and pieces induvidually.
Ok....so I will get all my "ducks in a row" and start then that poll.
An other way I had good luck with on the big tires that have been sitting for a while, is to lower the tire presure to about 40-50 psi. (empty truck of course!) Then go out and drive it around 5-10 miles at highway speed, so the tires get nice and warm, and inflate them back to what ever...
I would not mind at all, making all the mounts and brackets in multiples.
I could put together a "kit" that would contain the front frame extensions, all the cab mount brackets, all the parts and brackets for the steering set-up, the actuator and brackets for the pneumatic throttle, the cable...
Ready for PAINT
Today I got all the welding done on the inside of the pan and added the two stiffener braces on each side of the main support plates. Looks like I'm ready for primer in the morning.... :grin:
Steering gear box
Ok, the gear box is made by "HUB CITY" and it is called a "Parallel Shaft Drive"
It is called a Model: 22 Style: C Reduction: 1:1 Part# 10784
I purchased mine through "Motion Industries", (www.motionindustries.com) they are a distributor for Hub City.
Just got the actuator for the pneumatic trottle control in the mail. Now I can design and fabricate a bracket for it.
The "local" (just 130 miles away) Stewart & Stevenson dealer is making me a custom extension harness for the Allison push button pad. Looks like things are progressing...
Congratulations....Great find! I have to admit, I like the way it looks without the front fenders....
Keep the pics coming as you go through the restoration!
Ok....I guess I'm still waking up....My apologies, my statement above is wrong! I just remembered that YOU COULD FLIP THE BOX as far as the rotation goes. The problem is that the large part of the steering boxes body will interfere with the pitman arm!
Oh, I forgot to mention the most important part: you can't just flip the existing box! It will result in the wrong rotation and the vehicle will go left when you turn the wheel to the right!!!! :shock: You have to have a box of a HEMTT or LVS for this to work.
So I don't think the cab over...
I thought about flipping the steering box on mine, but as you pointed out there are a lot of modifications involved and by keeping all the stock setup, spares will be readily available if needed!
I can supply the Hub City gear box model and part number if you need it. I went with Hub City...