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No hurry, thanks. 2.5 isn't bad. Take a ten minute break and move 25 gallons in the meantime.

It would probably be a good idea to start a new thread with your question(s), both to get more answers for you, and to leave this one about Rusty Stud's modification of MEP-002A and MEP-003A generators.

Nice compact setup, Greg. If you don't mind, please post the manufacturers and part numbers for the main components in case I or one of the other guys would like to make something similar.

You know, a 5 hp shaper is a darned big shaper! It would be fun to visit your wood shop sometime. What do you make there?

I make them (see my signature). Alternatively, you could plug a 24v battery charger into the convenience outlet or wire it permanently.

There's really very little in the way of electrical equipment that would be bothered by the frequency being a few Hz off of 60. Mainly old motor driven clocks. Modern electronic equipment like TVs, DVRs, and computers have power supplies that make DC for all the internals, and those power...

OK thanks Rusty, I'll stop spreading their information then. You probably know... the original flashing circuit used a similar resistor, which is on the diode board in the box under the output lugs.

Wiring resistance won't change the AC frequency, so if it read 40 when the frequency was really 60, something is wrong. You're right about starting current. That can easily be 5 times running current. I've actually measured industrial 3 phase motors that draw about ten times their running...

Flight Systems says their regulator doesn't need the exciter field to be flashed to get output. There is enough residual magnetism to get things going without flashing.

This probably isn't your problem, but... the frequency meter will read very erratically if the engine speed is very far from 1800 rpm, sometimes reading full scale one way and/or the other. Have you verified that the engine is really running 1800 rpm?

Catman, you're certainly welcome. I'm glad you were able to fix your problem, and it wasn't something more serious.

It's possible that someone misadjusted the pot on the regulator board. It's a screwdriver adjustment, and is R12 on regulator 72-5338. If you have the other board, 72-5020, it's labeled R17. If there isn't some other problem causing this, you should be able to center your rheostat and adjust...

Thank you, Greg. I'll make a point to check that very soon.

From a mouse nest to a rat's nest. :-D

VFDs are really fun, if you're into that sort of thing. Programming a starting ramp greatly reduces the starting current so that just about anything that can run the motor can start it. Plus you get variable speed, electric braking, and lots of other features. Also, now the not-cheap...

Very good information, thanks. I *think* the lugs are similar on my 003A.

And even if you do need three phase power, these days you can get an affordable single phase powered variable frequency drive to power a 3-phase motor. I sold my old rotary converter that was powering my vertical mill years ago, and bought a VFD that not only runs it, but gives me a knob that...

Good to hear. Now you have me wondering if I should take may spray can of DeoxIT D5 and spray it all over/in/through the switch while turning it back and forth.

Reminds me of watching a clown with an air wrench install the wheels on my Dodge van after buying new tires. I saw him having trouble with one lug nut, and walked up to find that he had cross threaded it so badly that the nut was trapped on the stud, and had completely stripped the threads...

I'll be interested in hearing how that test goes. My guess is that the regulator will try to make the generator put out 240v 3 phase power. Adjusting the output down to 208 may be possible if that happens.