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Disconnect and insulate the wire that goes to terminal 17 of the regulator. This removes the regulator from the circuit. Then when you run the generator, you should get too high a voltage, like 170/340. If this happens, the regulator is at fault. If you still don't get any output, it's not...

Which board are you talking about? Do you mean the regulator board or the diode board that supplies exciter field current? There's a good schematic in the PDF file "TM5-6115-584-34.pdf" on page 1-9.

That's almost as bad as calling your stolen cell phone and making a deal to buy it back from the thief, and then showing up with a cop.

A lot of us put a little 2-stroke oil in our diesel fuel, in my case about an ounce per gallon, so 128:1. It's not critical.

One of the "Physical Plant" guys (maintenance workers) at the U of MD took a lot of copper gutters and downspouts while wearing his uniform and driving an official truck when I was going to school there. It took quite a while to figure out something was wrong, because it looked like he was just...

If your generator has neutral and ground bonded, and your entrance panel does too, you've effectively made one double conductor out of them, and you've lost all the benefits of having a separate ground wire for safety.

My 003A seems to have overload capability to match the surge from turning everything on at once. When I get it running and turn on its breaker, there is a small and momentary sag in engine speed, nothing more.

At least we can rest easy, since Storage Wars is as fake as it gets, script and all, but I'm sure "enemies" at real auctions pull dirty stuff on each other too.

I attended one auction at Fort Meade, quite a few years ago. They had a bunch of notebook computers, all of which were several years old, and pretty far behind the current technology of the day. They might have been OK for light use, with programs that weren't too taxing, but they definitely...

CVT1's control winding resistance (C1-C2) should be 9.6Ω, give or take an ohm. That and its other winding resistances are in TM5-6115-585-34 on page 6-15, which is page 93 in my PDF viewer. The C1-C2 winding is pretty easy to measure, since you have to disconnect the wire from only one...

When you say "Same readings" do you mean that both L0-L1 and L0-L3 go higher when turning the front panel adjustment both higher and lower? If so, that's truly strange. CVT1 has several functions. Its windings that terminate in X1, X2, and X3 supply AC to the diode bridge, which is what...

Your Dynasty is an inverter welder, but I don't think the Hobart is. Transformer welders are pretty inefficient. I know my Econotig used to use every bit of its 50A 240V input rating when I ran it at full output, although as you said, the duty cycle is low in that case.

I ran a Miller Econotig with similar current requirements with a 50 foot extension cord I made from #8 type SO cable. #12 sounds a bit small though. I wonder in someone changed the cord at some time in the past. You could try the #10 cable for the extension and see if it gets too warm in use...

Good work finding a painfully intermittent problem. A lot of solenoids, including many/most starter solenoids, have two coils like that.

Check both sides of the 240 to neutral at the main output lugs. That is, L1-L0 and L3-L0, and see when they do as you turn the adjustment knob. Use appropriate caution, of course.

If the voltmeter on the generator shows correct voltage, and shows higher and lower voltage with the front panel adjustment, then yes, I'd suspect the other meter.

In case you haven't bought the 12V chargers yet, they're available reasonably in 24V versions, probably because of the wheelchair market.

I've heard that the generators were rebuilt at 5,000 hours, but can easily go 10,000. If that's the case, most of the ones available to us will be able to run 5,000 to 10,000 hours before they need to be rebuilt. That would say that if a rebuild is going to be needed, it would be wise to wait...

The vast majority of generators I've read about on this site are far from needing a rebuild. My 003A had a bad hour meter when I got it, so I can only guess about when it will need its next rebuild, but it starts and runs fine, puts out rated power without blowing smoke or losing speed, and...

There's a procedure to test them in the TM. It takes a long time, a hot day, and a big load to make them open very far. No, they just stop the engine. Something is drawing too much 24 VDC current, or the breaker is bad. I guess you could put an ammeter in series with the breaker and see...