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Sounds good, WB. Let's hope power is back on for them by morning, but it's great you can help if it's not. The ice seems to have melted from the trees here now.

We got commercial power back about 6:30, so it was off about eight hours. I'm starting to really appreciate the MEP-003A now. There are still many places without power, so I hope they get it back soon. We heat with wood, but my 92 year old father lives with us in a sort of apartment, and that...

We got a lot of rain, ice pellets, and some freezing rain in the last half a day or so. The power went off here at 3:15 AM and I ran the 003A for a couple hours until it came back on. Late this morning it went off again and Progress Energy has so many outages in NC they're not even estimating...

+1 forgimpyrobb's avatar, and great story Speddmon. Nothing that interesting here yet, but I have had to run my 003A twice in the last week or so when the power went off for an hour at a time. I really do appreciate not having to decide what to do without during the outages.

It's a good feeling when you lose commercial power and have an MEP ready to go. We lost power for only about an hour yesterday, but it was a comfortable hour with the 003A running.

As I understand the breaker, it is a complicated one with a fluid damped delay mechanism and a magnetic trip mechanism. Even though it's never been used, if fluid leaked out over the years, is could lose its time-delay ability. Tripping with a steady 25 amp load is a different story, though...

Maybe silly, but be sure the panel lamps are not on.

Looks like a decent price for that unit. You probably know, but Lincoln has the manual for it on their site for free download.

I'm not disagreeing Ike, but not long ago I measured the starting current of three centrifugal blowers. They had quite a bit of inertia, so were slow to start, and the slo-blo fuses that were chosen were blowing at startup. The blowers had 5, 10, and 15 hp Baldor motors, and were running on...

OK thanks, I couldn't remember if you were running all 002As or also had an 003A. Sounds good, carry on. :grin:

I can't remember, why did you decide to go to #6 wire?

Jamawieb, I did miss suggesting that the front panel rheostat be checked, thanks. If that's not properly connected, or has a higher resistance than it should (open circuited) then you would also have the generator's output go high. That could be checked by simply shorting terminals 8 and 13 on...

Did you get my email, Chris? Just to save the board folks from duplicating, here's what I sent: I assume you have a copy of the schematic in TM5-6115-585-34. The control circuit is from T1, into the regulator at terminals 15 and 16, through the full wave rectifier in the regulator, out...

Actually I've moved one or two loads in the house from one side of the line to the other to help balance things because I saw my two meters reading very different currents. I understand that some panels are maxed out and it would be harder to swap things around, however.

My 003A has one.

A good point, and good reason to consider tubing like you used and zebedee suggested.

Zeb, where do you get your 1-3/4" pipe? (not tubing, pipe) :-) I'm pretty sure he wants to use standard threaded pipe and fittings for simplicity.

Nice job. The N4004 diodes will be great. Pretty much any of the ones in that series would work well.

It will work for all, but the intake heaters are two 12V units in series, so the individual resistance will be lower than the 24V glow plugs. They normally fail with too high a resistance though, so it should be obvious if one is bad.

Right, Issac. From my 2-stroke motorcycle experience I've learned that dunking the red-hot copper gasket in water will flake off most of the black oxide, which really ought to be removed before reusing. A little steel wooling will get the rest, but try not to flex the gasket while you're doing...