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OK good, so it's charging at 27 volts, which although a bit on the low side, isn't bad. It proves that the charging system can run the control system while also charging the battery. So as I said, if you need to run the generator without a battery, at least put a capacitor in the battery's...

The seven amp output of the charging system is plenty to run the control system. The time to get to 28V would be due a major portion of the charge current going to charging the battery. I take it you saw my post above about needing something to filter the DC from the regulator. The battery...

Your best bet is to watch the battery voltage after starting the generator, and see if it comes up to something reasonable in a half hour or an hour. You said that after starting it is 24, and slowly goes up to 26. That's a good sign. Does it keep rising after that? The charging current is...

From what I've learned, if you try running one without a battery, you'll probably blow one or more capacitors, such as the noise suppression ones on the fuel pumps, from subjecting them to unfiltered DC. You could wire a big capacitor in place of the battery if you need to run the generator...

Thanks for running the test and reporting the results. From what I've read on this board, it seems likely that the results are more related to the design and adjustment of the overload breakers than the actual capabilities of the generators.

Did you do the compression test with the throttle wide open?

If you leave your email address posted, the spam robots will harvest it and you'll be sorry. Now both donaldl and jamawieb need to delete it.

I love the avatar, Rob, a bottle that never stops pouring!

That may be, but I get some strange looks when I mention the Smith Corona 03A3.

Alternatively you can put a voltmeter on the switch and see if it reads 24 (overheated) or zero (normal).

Not to be picky, but is that 2 gallons oil and 6.75 gallons diesel, or 2 gallons oil and 4.75 gallons diesel?

What ratio of diesel to used motor oil do you use?

Ray, the front panel meter switch affects only the meter readings, not the output at the lugs.

As an aside, the knob on the panel is meant to allow the operator to set the voltage to 120/240. It says "increase" and has an arrow to show which way to turn it. It's not meant to be a "voltage increase switch." As Dangier said, in the single phase 120/240 setting, L0 to L3 should give you...

OK, I understand things better now. Check this with a meter, but I'm pretty sure one side of transformer T1's primary is L0. Same with T2.

If I understand correctly, you want to measure the voltage of each 120v leg separately. If you do, I think you'll see them pretty much the same, all the time, since there is only a small drop in voltage with increased load. Measuring the current on each leg separately and being able to switch...

Sort of related to your question, and maybe you know this, but to watch for load balance, you're better off monitoring current than voltage. You should be able to get L0 from the neutral terminal of the convenience outlet, as one example. I bet if you ask Jim C., he'll let you know what he...

I wish I had put a load on mine when I ran it at 1500 rpm. I'm not sure it won't put out its rated current at that speed, it just depends on the particulars of that magnetic amplifier type transformer, CVT1. The regulator output through the control windings of CVT1 doesn't really change a lot...

They're made to be used for 120v single phase, 120/240 single phase, and 208v 3 phase, front panel switchable. I've run my 003A at 50 Hz (1,500 rpm) to test the AC regulator at that speed, and it didn't mind a bit. But the regulator's output current to CVT1 was very low, meaning it was...

400 Hz transformers normally have a lot less iron in them than 60 Hz transformers. The resulting lower weight of transformers and motors is the main reason airplanes standardized on 400 Hz. The small iron cores mean they will get hot quickly if run at 60 Hz. That doesn't mean there isn't...