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I just cleaned and tested the plug. The male prong that comes down from the male side of the plug appears to be weak, corroded and about to break off. Yhe female side of the plug cleaned up fairly well but still some corrosion in the female port coming from the dead crank switch. I tested...

If my dead crank switch is not sending power out are and needs to be replaced is their a cross reference part number available for a like for like switch I can buy?

I'm working nights tonight, I am getting contact cleaner and will try to find the oxidation paste. I will be back on it tomorrow. If the plug is my issue do I cut the plug out and hardwire the wires together with butt connectors? I appreciate yalls help!

If that still doesn't get it I assume I should be testing the output side of the dead crank switch wire that runs to the plug. ....

I unplugged that plug and looked at it. It mostly looks clean although I will spray some contact cleaner on them later today. When I plug it back together and get the Grove lined up it does feel like it pushes in much at all. I don't think the plug is plugging in all the way but it could just be me.

Yes, you were correct, sorry. My reading on cr1 which is fed by wire 112a16 is 25.12 volts on the left side and 25.42 volts on the right side.

Dead crank in normal, e-switch pulled out, cb-1 pushed in, S1 in prime/run and using the ground stud on the lower right inside of the panel for my ground probe. MT4 reads: 25.38 on both sides CR-1 reads: 15.2 on the right side and 120 with the value slowly falling to 108 in about 10 seconds...

Reading a different thread with the same issue. I found MT-4 shunt. I have 24 volts on both sides of it. I went to CB-1 and I'm not getting a reading on either side of it. I'm assuming the circuit breaker is the, or part of the problem. Forgive ignorance here. But I would have assumed I would...

10/4, I will check it in the morning. Yea. The DC circuit breaker is the one that I looked at and made sure the button was pushed in.

Hi, I just bought a 803A for my parents as mine has proven to be the ticket for my needs. The one i just bought is a 2007 model, just got it home and did a filter and fluid fill, put in hot batteries and absolutely no power at the panel, no response from the fuel pumps, no panel lights, no...

Thanks, where can I find the technical manuals?

I just got it not long ago, not sure of its history. It runs well. Can I buy new cables and just buy new ones and change them out? Don't know my way around diesel engines very much....

I removed the top cover for the motor compartment to change the fuel return lines and notice these white cables with corroded looking wires/fittings. Are these grounding and bonding connections? I'm assuming I should make up new cables for it and replace them while the cover is off. Anyone have...

Appreciate the help. Thanks! -Chuck

And the fittings everywhere the fuel line terminates, is it all hose barb fittings where I can cut the old hose off the fittings and push the new hose onto them, or is the fittings pressed fittings where I need to get new fittings with the new hoses? Trying to get my material list together. I'll...

So if I go with the gates fuel line to solve my diesel return line leak, i need to go with the 1/8" hose or 1/4" hose. Also, regular gates fuel line or some special line for diesel or higher pressure? Sorry for being redundant, I've been up and going since 1AM.....

So I can use the fittings on the old hoses or I need to get new fittings as well?

Hi, I have a fuel leak on at least one line. It looks like the return line is real wet and needs replacing. There is another line that's wet as well, not sure what hose this is. It goes up to a metal cylinder maybe a solenoid. Any idea on replacement hoses?

This is great info. Thanks

Curious if I can crank the generator and just let it run for several hours here and there just to exercise it without any load or if I need to at least plug in a fan or something into the 110 plug for somewhere to send some power to.