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I saw the pirate 4x4 thread a while back and just ordered a upper and lower seal kit fom napa. I hope I do not have to go all the way in mine to get it to stop leaking.

Looks like you had a great time. I love to ride the trails. My wife loves to ride in or drive my M1008 more that I do, AND I like it a whole bunch.

Looks nice, I have thought about this as an option several times. Just cant get up the nerve to loose the bed all together.

I would check the level after the install, if I had to guess I would say you are going to need at least 1/2 to one quart to add. It really depends on how big the cooler is, how long the lines are and how much fluid you spill when you cut the factory line.

I would not take 5000.00 cash for mine right now and she is sitting on blocks, front end bearing issue. I love my M1008 and have no plans of letting her go. Having extra parts on hand such as two 14 bolts and one spare dana 60 don't hurt either. My dad also has one so it is somthing we do...

Really glad you got it off. This is a prime example of the right tool for the job makes it so much nicer and easier. I know we can not have every tool available but there are some that are a must. If you have trouble with the spindle bearing try and find a pilot bearing bearing puller...

As far as I can tell the part # is 14056299 and it is not available on gmpartsdirect.com, maybe you could try a brass fitting from a hardware store. Just a thought.

That is crazy, I can only imagine how many drill bits they burned up drilling through the thick material.

Thanks for the input so far. My original plan called for new front 4 inch springs and the ORD zero rate 1 inch add a leaf. I thought that would give me plenty of clerance to run a 37 tire without trimming the fenders. For the rear I was going to reuse the factory springs and use the ORD...

I am looking to upgrade my leaf springs on my M1008. I am torn between 4 and 6 inches of lift. I would like to be able to run 37 inch tires. I am considering a ORD shackle flip for the rear. I would like to know what make of springs you have, how well they have held up (spring sag) and how...

I have an 1084 M1008, the transmission has been rebuilt with a hard hitting shift kit. When I say hard shift, I mean it will always bark the inside tire if I am turning when it shifts from 1st to second and about 25% of the time it will do it if I am going in a straight line when the shift...

I have had close to the same problem you are having, mine is a 1984 1008. I found a tech bullentin online and it has been posted here on SS. http://www.steelsoldiers.com/778201-post10.html I beleive this will really help my truck and may also help you also. I also changed over to the push...

As others have posted the slight grind is kind of normal at times. I too have found that the tcase shifts easier if there is a less than 5 mph roll of the tires. You just have to get the feel for it. Every one of the vehicles I have ever driven has done what you described at one point. No...

Thanks for the help

One other question just to confirm my thoughts: I should have a total of 4 axle tube seals, 1 in each end of the tubes (near the brake rotor)and 2 inside the housing near the carrier. Thanks for your help so far

After searching with no luck I have what I beleive is a pretty simple question. I have a 1984 Chevy K30 CUCV with a Dana 60 front end. It is leaking around the axle tube ends. I am not loosing a bunch of fluid but I currently have the hubs and spindals off the truck to repack the wheel...

Does anyone know if this set up will work for my 1984 M1008.

I am having the same type problem, I beleive it is the kick panel vents leaking also. I also found the cavity for the vent to be filled with leaves. Gona try and clean all this out this weekend.:grd:

First off I am no expert but Ill give it a shot. Around 12 volts Red large wire come from the resistor behind the breather. It attaches to one of the large studs on the solenoid. The two large orange wires go to the other large stud on the solenoid. There should be a small pink wire that...

Tonight I replaced the ring terminal ends on the two small wires (blue and pink) at the GP solenoid and added a ground wire to the small lug with the blue wire on it. The ground wire goes through a switch then to a ground. The solenoid acted fine after this. Strange thing is now the seatbelt...