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If you're getting only 1.3V at that terminal during cranking, then you need to look at the schematic on p. 1-9 of TM5-6115-585-34, and figure out what's not passing 24V to that terminal. If you can crank the engine, it's getting to TB4-3. Then it has to go through a couple connectors, so maybe...

No, the generator of the 10 kW 003A is bigger than the one on the 5 kW 002A. I believe you can mount either one to either engine, but the 10 kW version is longer. I remember one of the guys here bought an 002A that had an 003A generator on it, and he was surprised when he figured that out.

The rotating diodes get their input from the exciter rotor. The exciter rotor generates its power from rotating in the exciter field. On startup, the exciter field is energized by the flashing circuit. This means that it would be logical to verify that the flashing circuit is working before...

I don't think it is necessary to flash the field for an extended time, but it is necessary that it gets flashed during starting. Make sure you see something like 10V on the field while you crank. If you do, it's time to move on to the next possible problem.

The exciter field resistance is 36 ohms. With a 24V supply in series with a 50 ohms resistor, the field voltage should be around 10V during flashing. As I said above, my 003A will not flash the field once the engine is up to speed, no matter how much I hold the switch in the start position. I...

I was thinking you could unscrew the strain relief and back shell from the 3-pin connector J12 and just hold the meter probes on the back ends of the two active pins, but I don't remember if that's easy to do on that type of connector. Anything that allows you to read the voltage on the exciter...

As I said ^ it's a resistor, and it's the obvious big thing that's not one of the six small diodes. To see if the flashing circuit is working, you measure the voltage on the exciter field when you're cranking the engine. You could do that at J12, which is the connector with two wires on the...

Just a minor point, but the rectifier board (A4) has one resistor that should measure about 50 Ohms, and six diodes. The resistor limits the flashing current, so you're right, it has to be intact.

I hope so too, but I don't know how it would read 1.02 for PF.

Something is wrong with your results. For 100 Hz, the engine would have to be running 3,000 rpm instead of the 1800 it's set up to run, so it would be screaming, and this is very unlikely. Are you sure the Kill-A-Watt meter isn't set to read power factor or something like that? On the model I...

Elvis, I can't remember if we talked about it before, but have you considered turning the WVO into biodiesel? That's supposed to be compatible with anything designed to run diesel fuel, as long as you stay above the gel temperature, which is higher than diesel.

Bad rotating diodes could cause the problem, as could a bad CVT1, or one or more bad diodes in the rectifier board A4. Of course any of the wiring or connectors that carry field current from CVT1 to the generator could be the problem too. J12 is on the back of the cabinet that houses CVT1, the...

Didn't it shut down when the oil level got low, as opposed to empty, so that damage was prevented?

It says that those flashing instructions are for the first time the new regulator is used with the generator, if there is not enough residual magnetism to get things started. I've emailed Chinese manufacturers and received useful responses before, when I was working with Chinese CDI units...

Not trying to be a smart-ass, but this means you need to remove the connection between the regulator and field before flashing the field. Diode isolation would be an option. If you have any questions, I'd recommend asking the manufacturer of the regulator.

Wet stacking is a fancy term for gooey carbon building up in the exhaust ports, mufflers, etc., caused by lack of enough heat. I'm not very experienced with diesel engines, but the consensus here is that air cooled diesels probably won't have the problem. The 002A and 003A are air cooled...

It really depends on your specific needs. For the small one you could go with a 5 kW MEP-002A or one of the smaller, more portable ones, depending on how much you plan to move it. For the 10-20 kW one, you might consider an MEP-003A. It's rated at 10 kW, but will do somewhat more than that...

In the 002A and 003A regulators, the tantalum capacitors are current limited by resistors in all cases except the big 150 uF one from pin 12 to pin 14. Even that one's current is limited by what T1 can supply, so I don't think failure by thermal runaway is really a concern in this case.

1. If you have a Kill-A-Watt or other frequency meter, the engine speed is 30 x frequency (Hz). 2. Throttle should be set at 1800 rpm and left there. It doesn't have to be all the way out at 1800 rpm. 3. If you've verified that the generator is putting out proper voltage and frequency, then...

I know... pretty clever, although not completely uncomplicated. :D