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I'd rather ship them to Jerry, who has experience with these particular injectors and is known to do good work than to go to someone local I don't know, and take a chance.

The temperature switch is normally closed and opens if it gets too hot, stopping the engine. If the engine runs after the master switch is released from the start position, the wiring is intact.

The factory film of the Tournadozer shows a very risky way to push over a tree. Bang into a random tree like that and have something near the top break off, and you might find yourself with a broken neck.

If I remember correctly, the 002A manual shows the circuit wired so it will flash if you move the master switch to the start position while the engine is running, but the 003A manual shows it wired though the speed switch so you can not flash once the engine is started. I have no idea how many...

If I had one of those, I'd rewire the whole thing to meet US standards. I don't want to open up a box like that a year or two from now and be confused about what color means what. I'm confused enough already, without help like that. :-D

My MEP-003A is wired according to the 003A schematic, and the flashing current is turned off by the speed switch. I don't how many 002As and 003As are wired this way, but mine won't flash unless the speed switch is below its operating RPM. If yours is wired the same, then by opening your...

You'll know very quickly if the direction you turn it is the direction you want. :-D

It everything is working the way it should, R17 should be able to raise the output voltage to get the panel adjustment in range. Center the front panel knob and adjust R17 until the voltage is where you like it. Be careful, since there is plenty of 120V floating around in the control cabinet.

http://www.openscad.org/

Specifically you need 3-D modeling, but it's not that hard to learn. My son uses an open source program on Linux.

That's always the way... like just after I post on a board like this I notice some stupid mistake that I didn't see when I previewed it. I see you used two garden tractor batteries. Funny coincidence that today my fork lift battery died. It's one of those long, thin 12V batteries that costs a...

Very nice restoration. I hope the shop that made the light tan decals gave you a discount for their spelling of "proper" though.

I have the gasoline version of your '63 4000, in blue and white. Nice tractor, but diesel would make it nicer.

The parts manual shows the part number for the resistor as 5905-00-081-7350. A google search turns up several sites that say it's a 56±5 ohm resistor, rated at 6.5 watts in free air. Anything around that resistance, rated for 6.5 watts or more, will be fine as long as the problem that made it...

Definitely something to consider.

Yes, I see what I did wrong. P. 8-1 of TM5-6115-584-34 says to do what you did. I was looking at the terminal numbers on diode board A4, not TB3 when I said to use terminal 4 and 5. I'm glad you followed the procedure correctly.

If you disconnect the wire at terminal 6, then you've disconnected one end of R1 and can make the measurement.

What was the resistance of R1? I wouldn't expect it to overhead unless something upstream allowed flashing current to continue when it was supposed to stop. If the 18V zener diode shorted, it would be normal for the R11 to overheat. Offhand I don't see these things pointing to a bigger...

Connecting battery + to terminal 4 and battery - to terminal 5 would send current through the exciter field, but I think I would apply it directly at the field side of unplugged J12 through a resistor if I were doing the test. Connecting a battery to terminals 5 and 6 would not give desirable...

3dAngus' deal sounds great, but for future reference, Summit Racing is another option. A short piece of stainless flex pipe and the rest of the run in solid tubing or pipe might be the way to go for cost. Like Jim C. said, a union at the muffler connection would make removal quick when needed.