Search results

CR14 is a diode. It's a little 1A diode. You can use a 1N4004, 1N4005, 1N4006, or 1N4007 to replace it. What Steelypip said still goes though... it's likely that something overloaded it to make it burn up like that. If you can get me a schematic diagram, I can give you an idea of what to...

The diodes usually have a part number on them. Can you see the number on a similar one or post a photo? I looked for a schematic, but haven't found one yet. Unless D14 is a big power rectifier diode with a stud mount, I bet you can use a 1N5408, which is an inexpensive 3 amp 1000V diode...

I agree that it would be nice to be able to flash the field when needed, but my 003A does not once the engine is up to speed, and the schematic shows that the speed switch disables the flashing function. I have not had time to go trace the wiring in my 003A, but I did confirm with a meter that...

As much as I like good deals from eBay, I've had to quit buying electronic parts from anyone except the suppliers that can't afford to have their names tarnished by counterfeit parts getting out to their customers. I had a very bad experience with counterfeit FETs last year.

I suspect that mouser.com will have them. If not, you can just search the net for 2N3584. Edit: Newark has them cheaper, but I haven't compared shipping.

Ike, I know you meant output transistor. :-D That would be Q3, mounted to the board with two screws.

I do have an 003A. I found out about its flashing connection because I measured the voltage on the field during the startup procedure. It was clear that the initial voltage dropped out as soon as the engine was running. Both the field voltage and the generator output voltage stay steady if I...

I had assumed that the -002A was wired the same as the -003A, but it is not. The -002a schematic shows the ground return for field flashing connected directly to ground, not through the starter disconnect switch, so moving the switch to the start position when the engine is running does apply...

I have to agree, Jim. I got two of the cheapest group 24 batteries I could get at Walmart, and they're working great. I've heard about significant problems happening if the battery is disconnected from a running MEP-002A or -003A as well, although I haven't looked into that myself.

Ha, yes, I see what you mean. The schematics are marked so if you connected DC to the bridge that way, current would flow. But bridges like that are normally marked as to their output polarity when AC is applied.

What you said sounds correct. In the last sentence of my post above, I was talking about the "+" and "-" markings on the schematic, where it shows the 6-diode bridge assembly (A4).

MEP-003A Field Flashing, or Lack Thereof I noticed something about the field flashing circuit of my 003A. When cranking, the field is momentarily energized or "flashed" by S1, marked "Master Switch" on the control panel. 24VDC is sent to the positive side of the exciter field, and current is...

So you decided against the pink?

No, make this one pink, just to be different.

Yes, that would work. I'd hesitate to do it that way, but if you swapped batteries once or twice a year, you'd probably avoid any unequal charging problems. In my case, I'm 55 years old, so I just have to get through another 25 or so before I won't care any more. If I got a complete spare set...

As long as 24V glow plugs are available, the simplest thing to do is keep using them. Demand will keep them available, as well. Then if they really do get scarce, the system could be redesigned to use dropping resistors or a DC-DC converter to change over. Simple is reliable. A $21 Chinese...

My experience with very cheap DC-DC converters is not good. This one might be fine though...

It does look a nice electric motor - generator set to convert 60 Hz power to 400 Hz power.

The way the pumps are designed, they energize their solenoids only when the pressure drops enough for the plunger to return to its relaxed position. When the flow is restricted, they slow way down and don't draw a lot of current. If they get full of air from an empty tank, they go nuts trying...

I've heard that the 003As were run 5,000 hours before a rebuild, and that in reality they were capable of a lot more than that. In my case, I run my 003A about 1/2 hour per month, plus outages, so maybe 10 to 20 hours per year. I'm 55, so if I live to be 100 I'll put up to 900 more hours on...