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I'll be listening for the answer. :) 116V and 124V are actually only 3-1/3% away from 120V.

Sewerzuk is obviously the experienced one for this, but I don't think this small voltage difference is an indication of a problem. It's probably an artifact of the zig-zag configuration.

Yes, that's too high. It can fail either way, so yes, it can cause high charge voltage. If the regulator were working properly, it would not matter the battery rating, the charge voltage should be maintained correctly. Yes, it probably will.

It's also convenient to remember it as P=V²/R. Since R is (nearly) constant in your test, power is proportional to the square of the voltage.

Good load test, thanks for the video. If the 4200W at the generator was measured at 120V, but your commercial power was 118.6V, that would account for the difference, assuming all the loads were resistive.

You said you have 24V power at the fuel pumps, so I don't see a need to look for a fuse, run another wire to test, etc.. I think LuckyDog may be on to something. See if his suggestion helps. The capacitors are the feed-through type. Power goes in one end and out the other, continuing on to...

If you have 24.8 volts at the pump and it's not running, then all I can suggest is to check for continuity from the connector to the pump internals. Exactly what happened when you heard the pop noise and things quit working?

Are you saying that the pump leads actually have 24.8V on them, measured at the connector right at the pumps, but they don't pump? What wire was it that touched ground?

The holes in mine are 2.5" diameter, 23" center to center on the ends, and about 55.5" center to center on the sides. I'm not sure how you want the distance between the two holes at each corner measured, since they are in different planes, but you can lay them out with these dimensions. Let me...

It comes with a 10% pay increase too.

I'm sure you can find better links that the one I sent if you look around. The reason it doesn't come up all the time, and the reason you didn't hear about it at the yacht company is that in general, when you put a bunch of loads on a generator, together they'll probably average something in...

The waste comes from things like resistive loss in the wiring, which is proportional to the current, whether the PF is 1 or not. If the PF were zero, you could have the full rated current flowing, and measure the rated voltage, without any power transferred to the load. A low power factor...

It's an analog ammeter that uses a current transformer in the generator output to provide a signal to the meter that's proportional to the main output current. Current transformers usually have very few turns of big wire on the primary, and in many cases are just one turn made by passing the...

It will. The problem is when the current and voltage are not in phase you have a non unity power factor, and the actual power transferred is not found by simply multiplying volts x amps, but is less than that. This means the meter would read higher than you would expect for a given % real...

I had assumed otherwise, but you're right, that's what the -12 manual says:

That difference is not a problem.

72 amps X 240 volts = 17,280 watts = 170% of rating. Are your lamps running on 240V? If they're running on 120, you'll need one on each of the two 120V legs to provide the load at 240. Also, you need to check the load with some kind of ammeter of known accuracy to verify it. Just because the...

All good points, except I don't think you'd want to try an impact wrench. It would overtighten the blower nut because of the impacts, rather than turn the engine much.

Excellent, I'm glad you got it going.

The oil pressure has to be high enough to make the low pressure shutoff switch close, and the high temperature shutoff switch has to be functioning correctly (closed) and the wiring to these switches has to be intact. Then when you do as Jerry above said and hold the switch in the start...