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Thanks for the link, Jason. I skimmed through it and will take more time later to read it. Because of my confusion (above), I plan to re-check my 003A's output with the regulator disconnected sometime soon. I'll post what I find out.

Here's one place selling it: https://solarconduit.com/shop/generator-start-control-module-gscm.html You can get a generic programmable controller like an Omron Zen cheaper, but this controller might eliminate the need for some of the relays you'd need with a PLC. You'd still need things like...

I don't mean to doubt you, but I've never heard of any part of the US grid that intentionally supplies 130Vor 260V. I have known about 130V bulbs for 30 years or more, but only as extra-long life "rugged" bulbs. I'm a fan of surge suppression hardware.

Oops, I goofed. It was not 160 on each 120V leg, it was about 260 total. I was looking at the meter today and realized my mistake. Now I've even less concerned about hurting anything in my house if the regulator fails.

If your panel voltage adjust pot got dirty from non-use, it could cause the high voltage output. If you haven't yet, try wiping it back and forth a dozen or two times. I don't remember how sealed it is, but if you can spray some good contact cleaner like DeoxIT D5 in it that'll help too...

If I preheat with the glow plugs properly, my 003A starts and runs cleanly in a few seconds. It sounds like either your glow plugs aren't working or your injector pump may not be set up properly. Did you follow the timing procedure when you put the new one on?

You can do that. I chose 50 because it's nearly double the normal voltage at the regulator output and will work fine for many years. A capacitor is a charge storage device, sort of like a mini-battery, but without a fixed terminal voltage, so you're right that whatever voltage if applied to it...

I think the main purpose is to smooth out the output of the regulator, especially if the battery isn't up to the job. Anyway, I've never paid $58 for capacitor in my life, and if I need to replace C1 in my 003A I sure won't do it without a big fight. :-D

OK, thanks, I looked it up earlier. It's C1 in the schematic, a 50 uF 75 Volt non-polarized tantalum capacitor from the output of the regulator to ground, and it is indeed a very expensive capacitor. Tantalums have especially long lives, and are good at absorbing a wide band of noise, but in...

Point me to a page in the parts list, or to the part in the schematic, or both, and I'll try to help.

I know... I was hoping to hear about the mods too.

Thanks Paul. I've been using the ones in -12, and having to keep looking back and forth between the 60Hz schematic and the 400Hz version to be able to figure anything out. I never thought to check the -34 manual, but it's much better. :beer:

It looks like Onan and Libby were not together: http://books.google.com/books?id=cvVlC-Q9ApMC&pg=PA536&lpg=PA536&dq=libby+welding+company+owned+by+onan&source=bl&ots=QHt-y9_QLi&sig=VL1z68zdXzvkpraPA6Dk685Y9EQ&hl=en#v=onepage&q=libby%20welding%20company%20owned%20by%20onan&f=false

I'll be interested in the responses, because I thought they were all made by Libby, using Onan engines.

This is a great thread, and it caused me to do a lot of thinking about a regulator failure causing the output to climb to 160V, but the more I think about it, the less I'm worried about it hurting anything in my house. 160V is only a 33% overvoltage. My computers, TVs, and video equipment are...

Doing both would probably be a good idea, since stopping the engine could prevent additional damage to the generator or control circuitry. It would be easy enough to have a 2-pole relay do both things. In any case, there's not much point to having the engine continue running after the output...

When I did my measurement of regulator current while idling the engine on my 003A recently, I disconnected the regulator output briefly with the generator at 1800 RPM, and the output voltage was right around 160 on each 120 leg. When the regulator is disconnected, the transformer that supplies...

3dAngus' point is a good one. I was assuming that loads sensitive to spikes spikes and brief overvoltages were already protected. Shutting off the generator engine in my case would be to protect things like refrigerator motors and lighting, and possibly the generator itself.

Very interesting idea, Jason. You could wire a relay in the line with the oil pressure switch and simply stop the engine if a voltage out of range occurs. As far as expensive electronics go, I try to have all of mine on UPSs. They sense both over and under voltage and come on for either...

Gotcha, makes sense now. It's on my list to put a strain relief on the side of my distribution box to get rid of the usual four wires dangling out the door.