Search results

Mil specs are very conservative when it comes to vehicles. I don't think you will have any trouble with your plans, the distance is short and you're only loaded one way, piece of cake. In fact, you'll be one of the few getting excellent traction from actually having a load on the truck...

I was cranking over my NHC250 today with no fuel and the oil pressure rose to 90psi. I'm in the "do not disassemble a perfectly good engine" crowd. i'm also in the "keep a close eye on the fluid levels until you're confident the seals and gaskets are not dryed out and leaking" crowd.

I have heard that you can purchase the new version air dryer for less than the cost of a rebuild kit for the old style. Also heard that the new version is more reliable than the old version fwiw.

if you get there before us please hold an adjacent spot, we'll do the same if we get there before you.

Hopefully this is helpful...

Perhaps we could put out a donation box for the CMVPS (Cininnati Military Vehicle Preservation Society ;) in an effort to cover expenses? I'll get the wife working on that.

In June we bought a 1981, M931A1, 5-ton, NHC 250, 1400 original miles, 2010 military rebuild with new motor and ABS. Frame was extended with two deuce beds fabricated into one big cargo bed 8 MRAP bucket seats in the back. I never drove a MV before, drove air brakes to get a class B CDL in...

The wife says we are going in the 5 ton, and she's the boss.

We went to Black Mountain in Harlan, KY a few weeks back. Great place for our first time off roading...

Figured it out and didn't bother to pass along what was learned? Hope he's just been busy and things worked out.

I'm guessing these did not meet mil-spec.

Good deal. I wanted to verify what I think is a key symptom to the stuck unloader problem. The symptom is when the air builds better cold, than after warm up. I have two data points as of now, I have to believe there are/have been many more cases of no air build when hot. Glad to see things...

So how did the unloader service go and how is the vehicle running? Hope everything turned out alright.

Kinda makes yah worry eh? Hope he's okay. And curious as to if the problem was solved and what the root cause was?

You can pay retail at places like this if it's available(there are several out there): http://www.eriksmilitarysurplus.com/teseunwirush.html (this is the resistance type for gauge, not the NC switch type you are looking for) Or post what you're looking for in the SS classified part wanted...

The engine temperature sensor is a N.C.(normally closed) switch which would apply GND to the FSW pin D through wire 35 when the temperature is not too high. After the temperature reaches the threshold(not sure what temp that is) the switch would open taking away the ground which would activate...

Just the splice itself, without solder would increase the resistance. I'm surprised it worked for any length of time. Glad to see you have found the root of the problem. I'm curious of which FSW module is in your truck? Could you describe it or photograph it?

Replaced undercab exhaust tube that was rotted at the muffler flange with a gently used one and new gaskets. Thanks to SS member: http://www.steelsoldiers.com/member.php?4878-jcappeljr for providing the replacement!

The fact that your battery switch seems to do nothing is my thought. You can confirm it is working, and providing power to the PCB by... connect everything as it should be. measure at the battery switch: terminal A(wire81A) to GND should always read 24VDC terminal B(wire459) to GND should...

When you turn the 24V electric switch on the dash to the up(on) position, does the voltage gage move? If so is it in the red,yellow, or green range?