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Dirt in there won't usually be an issue as long as it is dry. The instant it gets damp, weird things will happen and 'go wrongs' will occur. I would recommend a moderately stiff brush and vacuum for first round. Power off! Then do it again with a smaller nozzle and softer brush. You'll be amazed...

The kids would like that in their go kart!

Here is the flyer from the manufacturer of both styles of adapter. http://www.teslaind.com/products-connectors-nato-ti2000-295.php Haven't called to see if they sell to the public or price.

Use canvas tarps, not poly. The canvas tarp can breathe and won't promote condensation. The Bluebiquitous poly tarp creates it own little rain forest underneath.

I bought a pair of them for $19 in 2016 from ebay seller markandmandee.

I have only two pin cables around here. I had no trouble buying adapters to one pin for them this year. I carry one in each vehicles glovebox so I am never without if I need one.

I have seen a Hydrovac unit mounted under the drivers seat and piped through the floor. Around here at least, good ones are hard to come up with.

The M37 bed mount works fine with the addition of an "L" bracket bolted at the bottom. That is where I got the bed mount for my truck. From an M101 trailer.

Just remember to use very (Censored? WTF!) little silicon anything. As much as squeezes out the outside is squeezing on the inside where it can plug up oil passages and such when it comes loose. Patience is required with Right Stuff (Works very well) and any other RTV as you need to make a thin...

I have one of each. They are functionally identical.

I simply use the same crimper for the Douglass connectors that I have. Never had a crimp failure in many hundred ends installed. I do however have the correct crimps for Duetch and Weatherpack connectors. I've never found a suitable substitute for them.

A pump failure will usually very quickly FILL the crankcase with fuel. (It can pump over a pint a minute) To the point of pouring out at the seals and any other opening. If your dipstick wasn't above the full mark, you caught it very early. (or it isn't actually a problem) Oil can smell like...

When you get it home, see if you can turn it by hand. If you absolutely had to, you could replace the bearings in frame. At least if the crank is still Ok.

Just ask for him in the Dodge M37 / M43 group on Farcebook. He is in Oregon.

As to the Speedways tires. I have them in 900-16 on my M37. They wear well enough if your alignment is good. They aren't the most round tire I've bought, but are worth the money for a driver.

David Moore makes 17x8 tubless wheels using your original centers. Pretty reasonably, too.

They are NOT SPLIT RIMS! (Unless you have combat wheels on it) They are SAFETY RING wheels. A real tire shop, truck shop or farm shop can do them for you. With care, you can do them yourself. That was the original intent of the design. To be able to change a tire anywhere. I do enough of them...

You might find it difficult to get Jack to sell you the parts. He is reticent to sell parts. His business is complete trucks.

You could determine the issue by running a cylinder leakdown test before you dismantle it.

We strap them to a mortar mixer filled with a couple boxes full of 1/2" nuts and cleaning chemicals. A few hours later, spotless tank.