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Where should the dipstick read with everything stone cold? That makes sense with the general engineering I've seen, I suppose. The cooler, etc. must surely not be accounted for in the TM... At least I have more fluid lying around since I ran out of space in my oil bucket and wasn't able to drain...

-12 manual confirms the FAQ's stated 4.0qt capacity. Gotcha. Makes sense. I'll give it a go. Anything else to try while I'm at it? Any other ideas as to what it might be? Other things to try and check in case that doesn't work? What are the odds the pump has died? Would it go from fine to dead...

Oh! I'm reading every thread I can find that seems remotely applicable on this and other forums looking for inspiration: There was a very small quantity of black particles in the bottom of the transmission sump when I pulled it and a little hair on the magnet. Not enough to have concerned me at...

By up on stands, you are intending to level it out and get the drive wheels unloaded so that it's only pushing fluid?

I just put 4 fresh quarts in it (as per FAQ thread), and it's not leaking any more since I resealed the pan and the governor plate. It's possible it needs more fluid, but it's hard to tell. There are two lines between which the fluid should indicate when WARM. I can't run it to get it warm...

My friend helped me fire it up, and he made sure the linkage was shifting through all the gears. Rolls with gravity, but park holds it in place; put it in park, release parking brake, rolls back slightly and catches on the pawl. We made sure the transfer case was in 2 hi, but didn't watch the...

AH! Yeah, that pickup. How easy would it actually be for it to drop off? It should be held in place by the filter more or less... A week and a half or so. Not too terribly long... I just put off filling it back up until I was ready to refill all the fluids. Could the fact that it's been...

Elaborate?

'84 M1009, 30K miles, pretty much stock as applies to the issue at hand. Over the past month and a half, transmission related tasks: -drain and replace fluid -replace transmission filter -reseal sump pan -reseal governor cover (was leaking badly) Task performed that were in close proximity to...

I recently had my radiator (original) rebuilt because the electrolysis between the coolant and the lead in the joint solder caused it to effectively fill up with mineral deposits after it sat in storage for so long. It was so full of crap, I'm surprised it flowed at all. You could see the white...

http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?125778-Heater-Box-Reconditioning Finished this today, among other things. Also installed this: and uninstalled what was here: To include hammering out the dents, grinding it all nice and smooth, and priming it. Got rid of the Silverado trim...

I just wrapped this little jewel up this afternoon. My radiator was trashed and needed to be rebuilt, so I figured my heater core wasn't far behind. While it was at the radiator shop, I tackled this project. First off, the whole first day's photo set seems to have disappeared, so I attempted to...

Typically they'e be finned instead of "turbulated" and just called deep sumps. Additional fluid (albeit only one quart) means additional thermal mass means it takes more energy to get it hot... It also takes more to get it up to operating temperature. The "turbulated cooling tubes" thing looks...

I'm getting sensors at the FLAPS now, then headed to the hardware store. I should be able to share that exact size momentarily.

The thread had precisely the information I needed, and the news I was afraid of. Looks like the military version uses an adapter to boot. The civie version uses a larger sensor unit, so the military ones have a sort of step down adapter (which is what I can't get out of mine). I found and...

So this just happened... I was trying to remove the coolant temp sensor from the back of the block while I had easy access to it, and no amount of anything would get it loose. I nearly broke my 7/8" line wrench! I ended up having to take the whole flange off, and even putting it in a bench...

This truck is the newest vehicle in my stable by 26 years (a big part of the impetus for the purchase of this particular vehicle was as a tow rig/shop hauler for my more regular fare). I'm completely down with old car foibles. Nothing makes me happier than the click of a torque wrench sending...

Air cooled cars are permitted to mark their territory. My M1009 is not. Ergo, I am replacing the rear main seal. When I removed the IP (and everything else from the top of the engine), I verified that my marking problem was not coming from above the rear main seal. Here's the source...

I assume oil pressure is fine. It's still fairly stock and I've only driven it a few hundred miles (home from purchase) and to the tire shop, and it seemed fine save a fuel delivery issue from sitting and probably because the additive I used knocked some junk loose. It honestly seemed pretty...

I had a pretty decent leak coming from the back of the engine, and it turned out, not surprisingly, to be the rear main seal. I got it all down to replace it, and sure enough, it was installed level with the bearing cap and without any sealant to either side as per the manual. That explains the...