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If it was a J code, it would have a non EGR intake and should not have the EPR (Exhaust Pressure Regulator) flappers on the manifolds. The head gaskets can be stock with a turbo, but a lot of people use 6.5TD gasket to slighty lower CR. Replacing the head bolts are MUST. The factory bolts are...

My mistake. "D 15 4" would be April, 15th 1984! Sorry about that!aua D 15 5 would definitely be April, 15th 1985!

There is a casting number on left rear side of the block where the transmission mounts. There is also a date code that will be something like "D 15 4" or "G 20 6". The first letter is the date : A = January, B = February, and so forth. The first number (or pair of numbers), and the last number...

M101A2 trailer, Warner Robins, GA Date Auction Won: 1/06/11 Date EUC Sent to Gov Liq: 1/12/11 EUC revisions requested from Customer: No revisions needed this time! Date EUC Sent to Battle Creek: 1/14/11 Now we wait!!!:|

They were red on mine like these. That's what I'm going back with.

You wouldn't want to put old lifters on a new cam, so I'd get a cam kit with them included. The pushrods and valves will be fine as long as they are not damaged. The stock valve springs would be ok with a lower lift cam, but if you order the biggest one in the book, you would want to upgrade the...

The block, heads (unless you want performance heads) and all tin parts like the oil pan, timing cover, etc. That kit with replace the whole rotating assembly, so you won't need those. I'd but a 4 bbl intake and crab on it, especially if I did the stroker kit. I'd also put in a RV cam or if you...

No, I stole those from here and posted them in the k5 forum.;)

Yes, but I fabbed the rear housing to make it that way. Mine was just like your's stock.

Yes, you're right, I was generally talking about 14 bolt rearends in these body styles. I'm not sure when the changeover year was, but I had a '87 dually pickup with a 14 bolt, and the one under my '67 C-30 came out of a '97 C3500.

I also used a 2.5" Flowmaster crossover pipe like the one in the link above.

I like 4" systems for the sound, but I used a 3" system on a service body truck I used to have, and it ran great. I didn't use a muffler on my dually. The turbo muflles a lot of sound and kinda acts as a muffler, and the 4" system I built mellows it a lot. I built a 4" rear housing for the turbo...

Sounds like you should several for $715 and put them on ebay!;)

The later dually pickups used 14 bolts instead a Dana 70. That's what I have under my '67 C-30. There are 3 different width 14 bolt FF rears - SRW, cab and chassis dually, and Dually pickup/short bus.

^^^This^^^ I cut my bad one apart and was surprised how it was constructed. Definitely not serviceable!

I replaced one of my fronts with a M880 light, and I cut the wire off the factory B/O light and put a bullet connector to make it work. I didn't want to cut the fcatory harness, so this was the best solution I could find. I had to tie up the slack and taped it up with electrical tape.

Good answer! I'll use that in regards to my converted dually!

Here's a great price on a bigger diameter downpipe and crossover pipe. If you crossover pipe is rusty, I would recommend replacing it. That are bad about burning through, and rusting inside and collasping because they are double walled. The 6.5TD downpipe will have to be modified to use on your...

Here's one for $30, which is about as good as I've seen for a new one... 6.5 turbo clamp items - Get great deals on Parts Accessories items on eBay Motors!= SS Diesel gets @47.99 plus shipping! SSDiesel Supply :: GM 6.5 TD Specialists, PMD failure, FSD heat sync kit.

It really isn't a flange. The down pipe on a 6.5 turbo truck clamps directly to the turbo. I think I have a stock down pipe laying around, and if I do, I'll cut off the end and send it to you if you pay shipping. On the clamp, you can get from a Chevy dealer or even places like SS Diesel Supply...