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I have thought seriously about it several times with a wide variety of motors. I think with a divorced transfer case you have a bunch of options for power, it is just hard to find anything big with an auto behind it. Ken

Hey I did the same thing. My first thought was to use a electrical panel punch to enlarge the hole. Yea good luck with that. I used a carbide rotary file and a battery operated drill, how did you do it? Ken

So I have been designing and building a 24v pre-oiler for our M925A1 (NHC250) and have it all done but the squealing. It is compact, robust, clever, adaptable to any truck and quite cheap if I do say so myself. I have come to a sudden crossroads however and wish to consult the hive mind. My...

I put a key switch in mine and will put it in gear if I am going to leave it. Might not confuse a military guy for long but sure to mess with anyone else. Sometimes I spend longer than I care to admit trying to figure out why it will not start. 925a1 Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk

I do and have a DOT number on the door for commercial INTRA-state operations not INTER-state operations. Means I can't run the truck commercially outside MT's border. In all honesty I would be afraid of driving the truck outside MT at all for fear of how the DOT inspections would go. The...

I mounted the forward facing camera high up on the cab light bar, means I can see the front bumper in the camera (925 winch truck). The rear one is about head high mounted inside the "people cage". They let me get very close to things without letting the crunch out. That is nice for sure. Ken

I have a three camera system that I can see on a screen mounted behind the steering wheel. If DOT pulls you remember to tun the screen off or it is fine time but since I use it as a rear-view mirror I never do. Life isn't a video game so watch the road not the screen is my motto. No more or...

Non emissions friendly injectors? Can you explain a little bit about those and why I should switch them? To add a new layer to the crate motor saga, fully understanding that life is full of crazy things that happen... What if the motors in question were Forest Service replacement motors...

I chased a horn issue all last summer. First start by loosening all the ground lugs on the steering column and snugging them back down. I added a new line from the ground lug to a second ground terminal on the dash. Even added a temporary line directly to the battery just trying to isolate...

I also vote thicker is better especially if you find some pitting on the rim. I try the 5/16 first and keep a 3/8 on hand just in case. For those that remember out homemade o-ring experiments I still have a few tires running them but our long term success was like 25%. Guys have recommended...

Forgive me if there is a thread on this, I couldn't find it. Just trying to be informed as I decide to rebuild, repower or put a crate motor in our tour truck a 1984 925a1. I have ruled out a 'take out' motor simply because I am dealing with a 2 out of 3 failure rate on mystery motors so far...

Here we are pulling the motor down: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6gRVJmoqlw8

Finally got around to pulling the tour truck motor down and found #1 was cooked with bits of skirt melted right to the liner. Clear that was where the water leak was coming from. Pitting seems to have eaten the o rings. Trying to decide how long it ran buggered and what came first burning...

Good to know. One loose bolt, or three in my case just transfers all the load to the others. Might not seem like a big deal but if the others shear when offroad or under braking bad things can happen. It just shocked me how all of mine seemed fine except that one. Ken

On the bolt size chart 150ish would be a good number. That is what I used. Ken EDIT: see post above

I think you are all over thinking this. Pipe that slips over P-Brake handle about 8 inches long with chain loop welded on in center. Tab under Seat belt mount with length of chain welded on. Padlock chain to pipe. Chain isn't long enough to slip pipe up and off handle, handle can not be...

Giving the tour truck its weekly crawl under/over and I found something that I think is alarming and that you might want to check on your own trucks. Better than half of the bolts that held the front and rear spring perches to the frame were not tight, some barely qualified as 'snug'. Only two...

I pulled and swapped motors as the fastest and cheapest way to get the truck back in action and making money. We have long shipping times here in Montana. Took longer than expected by a day or two but I learned some valuable lessons. Like I learned how to make getting the PTO off and on fast...

Two out, one in. Special spot in **** for whoever decided hose hangers had to be held on with grade 8 fine thread bolts and steel lock nuts. Have learned a bunch about liner failure once I can organise my thoughts I make something up about it. Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk

Not going to beat that. Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk