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I think you're wasting your time and risking expensive pump damage unless you're very careful (with used motor oil). All the stories you hear about it being historically used for years are pretty much nonsense when put into the context of the 6.2 diesel. That because the 6.2 uses a distributor...

The strap design isn't the problem. There are many vehicles with that strap design that have zero failure problems. My 87 diesel Suburban is one. Also, it doesn't suffer from the short wheelbase the K5 Blazer has. When all is right, those straps certainly do put even pressure on the caps...

Have you had a high failure rate of the rear joint, or just want to upgrade? I ask because many of these rigs have chronic rear joint faiure. Not breakage, just the two bearing caps burning up (the two that get strapped to the pinion flange). The K5 design already has the built-in problem...

Timing advance getting sluggish? The ignition timing advance is usually the first thing to wear on the Stanadyne DB2 pumps. Not easy to check on a 6.2 since the pump is buried in the middle of the engine. It CAN be checked with a gas-engine timing light if you have the proper adapters...

From what I've seen, the Wellmans are junk. I bought a bunch last year. Some for me and some I gave to my son. Every one of them was crap and it had absolutely nothing to do with bad controllers or excessive heat time. About the only plug I've ever come across that was worse was a Champion...

I've bought many new starters from DB. Many for my 6.2 diesels and also for my 7.3 Ford-IH and several diesel farm tractors. Never had any trouble with D B or the Chinese starters. Some I've bought new for $95.

It is NOT just a one-way check valve. It is also the housing pressure regulator. It should only be broken out in emergency situations so you can drive the rig. They virtually last forever unless the pump has an internal failure and debris gets into it. All the pumps built up to 1985 had a...

I assume you mean the two-prong glow-plug inhibit switch? If so, it doesn't serve any useful purpose. Just bypass it and join those two wires together. GM used it in the early years to stop the glow plugs from working once engine coolant temp was 125 degrees F or higher.