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Does anyone know what the amperage draw is on the glow plug system? Had an electrical fire and I am rewiring the firewall. I want to replace the fusible link with a circuit breaker and was wondering what the fusible link was rated at amp-wise so I can get a comparably rated circuit breaker.
Well I did the TSM disc brake conversion (with e-brake) this weekend. It was super easy to get installed, but then came the emergency brake cables.... Getting that spring guard off the end of the e-cable is a PITA.... Other than that I had the brakes installed in about 25 minutes per side...
I have a similar thread going with no luck on this noise too. My injection pump is 25 years old, but does the same thing. Especially during cornering from a stop. Somebody suggested it could be an injector line touching something like the firewall, which would make a similar noise, but I haven't...
I got 37's and a 4" lift on my M1008. Absolute minimum fender trimming. (less than 1/4") I average about 16mpg on the highway at 55mph. That Sidewinder setup will help the MPG's too. Don't expect to travel fast in a M1008 though.... Even with 37's my upper limit is about 65mph... And that is...
If that is a 10-bolt with a G80 locker, I would be prepared for catastrophe soon... If it is locking up like that at low speeds, it is ready to blow.... My Suburban had the same diff and did the same thing. Two days later it shot a chunk of the carrier through the diff cover while leaving a stop...
Check the obvious stuff first. Make sure your batteries are wired in series and not in parallel, check the connectors on the alternators. Verify the isolated ground wires are properly attached. It's still weird that the Gen 2 light won't come on with low voltage, because that is what it's...
I got 16mpg at 50mph on the stock tires in my M1008 on the drive home from Mississippi. I have 37's now and get anywhere from 14-17mpg depending on how badly I abuse the throttle pedal.
I don't know what the part number is, but I just got mine from Advance Auto Parts. Told them it was for a 6.2L K30 with a TH400 trans. It was in stock. $10. Napa has them too.
I believe it's supposed to be around 8" of vacuum, so it's not too far off. Just adjust the VRV back towards the air cleaner a bit to increase vacuum and that should soften up and lower the shift. TH400 transmissions were known to have a quick shift to them anyways.
HD 6.2L Diesel Injection Pump 6.2 Chevy GMC Injector: eBay Motors (item 280442712923 end time Jun-22-10 11:40:47 PDT)
This guy does good work. He rebuilt the IP and injectors on my truck and it runs awesome.
This listing is for a rebuilt IP pump and then you mail back your old one and get your...
Yes you can use civilian IPs. They are just usually tuned to less power unless you find one from a 1-ton J-Code. They work the same though as far as I know.
Offroad Design makes a product called 1" Zero-Rate Add-a-Leafs. They are like a lift block, but are bolted directly into the leaf pack, so it is 100% safe to use on the front end. Doesn't effect ride quality or reliability.
Add a Leafs, Zero Rate for 4x4 Suspensions from Offroad Design
I just fixed the identical issue. It was the VRV. I found it on Amazon.com for $85 with free shipping. AC Delco part #14057219. I'd check to see if you have vacuum at the modulator first though. High RPM hard shifts are usually caused by a lack of vacuum to the modulator, causing the governor to...
Success! Installed new VRV and truck shifts better than ever! It's good weather today, so the real test is going to be when it rains, but I think this is it. Thanks for all the help everyone!:beer:
Did you have any issues getting adjusting the front/rear brake power ratio? Did you have to install an adjustable proportioning valve? Also, do you have that GM factory load adjusting brake valve still on your truck? (Not sure if M1028 had them) I am in the same boat as you were with the rear...