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Well the rtv stuff is that bright orange rtv color not black so I don't think it is fuel lines. The thing that worries me the most is I cleaned the filter and drove it and there is still a lack of power and if the ip is going again I cant afford to replace it.
Ok so I have owned this truck for almost a year and am getting a little annoyed at the numerous problems I keep having. About 6 months ago I had to replace the lifter pump and injector pump on a trip and all was well for the most part (other than numerous little parts going out all the time)...
Well this wosent form one injector it was from the black hose one the front of the IP that connects to the hard steel line that becomes a rubber hose and connects to each injector. Also what is this for as it seems to run normally with it disconnected and spewing diesel or connected.
How much fuel should be coming out of the black rubber hose on the front of the ip? I pulled my while it was running today and was surprised to see that is wasn't spraying out, just a healthy drizzle coming from the ip side of the hose. Is this normal? I have never checked it before and so I am...
Well it is gonna get 4.10's which should be fine for town driving between 45-55 and the occasional (maybe twice a year) 60 mph trip to the mountains 200 mi away. The gear ratio calc I used says 2495 at 60 so that looks ok in my inexperienced opinion, right? I don't need a speed demon just...
Well I ended up getting a whole blazer minus the motor for $400 with many extras including a np203, manual tranny, 2 extra doors, np205, roll bar, 4" lift, dana 44/14bolt FF with 4.10s. I was gonna go with 3.73's but this was too good to pass up. Do you think I will able to do 65 without hurting...
I looked at the gear ratio site, but I was just wondering rpm wise what is a safe rpm for the engine at highway speeds. Cause it looks like the engine will be doing about 3100 at 75 with the 4.10's and that seems a little close to the red line.
Oh nooooo I am too late. I saw the title of the post and though I should post that there is a shallow and deep pan for the th400 and you want the deep one that can hold more fluid. I think shallow one will work, but you wont have as much fluid to stay cool.
Well I have a dana 44/14 bolt corporate setup that I am going to buy if the gears are right. It has 4.10 gears in it. My question is will my m1009 still be able to maintain 75mph on the highway for hours or driving with 35" BFGs and the 4.10 gears and without hurting the engine or causing it to...
Ok here is what I got. Some times and sometimes only I will hear a relay go clunk while I am driving (engine been running for more than 5 min) and the volt gauge does almost to the red. It only happens for about a second and the relay clicks off. Based on this I am suspecting the glowplugs. Is...
Ok here is how their importance was explained to me. In this system the bolts act as springs. When under tension like they are they are able to stretch and shrink just a little as the transmission torques them and they absorb just enough energy to prevent cracks in the frame and crossmember. So...
Well after driving today I noticed around lunch that the truck would chirp when it was accelerating. I discovered that the problem was the center cross member bolts coming loose and one missing :shock: allowing the transmission to move around a lot while being torqued. Tightened the remaining...
Well I tinkered with the dash and it went out and seems to be working properly again. I think the system might be a tad low on fluid but it is operating normally so it shouldn't have triggered the light. I am going top it off tomorrow but for now all is good.
Well after sitting for 2 months or so I fired up m1009 and everything is fine, except the parking brake light on the dash wont shut off. I disconnected the switch and it still stays illuminated. Is there an easy or common fix to get it working properly again?