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With two bad batteries, my truck cranked really slow. Sometimes I'd have to hit the button a couple times to get it to turn over and start. The voltage gage also only read about 24v even with the alternator running. I think you'll notice pretty quickly if yours are going south.

I'd call those good. Maybe the 12.1 is questionable. Are you having cranking problems? I had two at 9-10v and they wouldn't take a charge even with a high current charger.

That's helpful; thanks. So other than the bell housing plug, is there any more to the "fording kit"? I've seen mention of the kit but haven't been able to find one. I'm not planning any river crossings but want to have the info in case of a flood.

I've read a couple places that maximum fording depth is 30" without an additional kit. What's included in the kit? What limits the depth to 30" without the kit? Some low breathers?

I'm impressed! It is the 5590 W&W. I got it for my birthday about 22 years ago, then it went to my nephew, and about a year ago came back to me. Now my three kids play with it, plus the other sets that have been mixed in. A lot of the original set has gone missing (I'll blame my nephew:D).

In response to the original question, an option might be to make a sub-frame of sorts for the tanks, batteries, etc., and mount it with large, squishy, isolators to the main truck frame. Or even use links with heim joints that allow the truck to twist around the subframe but not let the subframe...

Aerodynamics. rofl

I'll call them engineered interlocking recreational construction bricks then. :)

My boy wanted a Lego model of my truck. Challenge accepted! These are my old Legos that he's now playing with (and me too :D).

I recently tried tracing the reverse light circuit in the TM but had trouble making sense of it as it jumped pages and across connectors. It's grounded to chassis so the switch must be in the positive side.

Great idea! I see a used hitch on CL for $70; I think I will do the same as you. Did you just have to drill holes in the frame for this to fit up?

Regarding the driveshaft tool, can you not just pry the U-joint from the yoke after removing the caps? Why is the tool needed? I haven't looked at this very closely on my truck yet.

If the speedo signal is electronic then you can use a module to add a multiplier/divider to the signal. Dakota Digital makes these: http://www.dakotadigital.com/index.cfm/page/ptype=product/product_id=126/prd126.htm

Do they inspect the plates in CA? In Ohio they check the VIN only if the car came from out of state. Mine was already registered to a private owner in-state when I bought it so they never looked at it.

Congrats on the purchase! Mine tops out at 53, and it would be great if it could hit 65, but I really don't feel like these beasts would be very stable at that high of a speed. Too easy to lose control or roll.

Congrats! Bet there was a big sigh of relief when you got home.

The blank for mine was from a Land Rover, I think. It's a long sucker. I took the whole handle/lock assembly to a locksmith and they made keys to match for around $35.

Dragging this one from the dead, but I was doing some searching and found this thread. What interior differences did the Bronto/Brazos have from the military versions? Seats, instruments, cup holders? lol

Ha nice work! At my old shop the lot was gravel and my tow motor would routinely get stuck. So frustrating. Is your truck one of the new ones that S&S was selling before BAE bought them?

What agency is responsible for deciding what trucks gets sold? I'm assuming DoD? Then GSA sells it off? I wonder if a freedom of information act inquiry would reveal what will be disposed of in the next couple years.