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I've ordered seat covers, arctic grill covers, winch covers and other canvas items from jatonka. Nothing I have received has smelled or soiled anything. In my opinion, everything I have purchased from him has been an excellent quality reproduction and have held up for going on 6 years in the...

This should help. https://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?108461-Starter-relay-bypass&highlight=

On the single piston compressors there is an oil line that goes from the mounting base up to the side of the compressor. It's usually a hard (copper?) line. When I broke mine I replaced it with 1/4" airbrake line.

Pm sent.

Was a great time! Thanks everyone who participated and contributed.

And as always, I'll bring the firewood!

I have planned to go, if there's enough interest from everyone I'll take care of the paperwork etc. for getting a spot if you'll give me the info of who to contact.

I've got a couple good take off buttons and clips. PM sent.

Hopefully it's as simple as loosening two screws! If it's tight then I'm guessing that's at least part, if not all, of your problem.

I had a problem a couple months ago with the motor in my deuce hunting for idle. I had replaced all the orings on the shut off rod and HH. Turns out the orings on the fuel shut off rod was a little bigger than the stock one. I loosened the two screws on the shut off rod retainer just a tad and...

Here in New Mexico I would expect to pay $4,500-$5,000 for a running, good condition rust free truck without a winch and $5,500-$6,000 with a winch.

I wouldn't worry about it. Wait for a warm day and drain them then. When I had a truck that was equipped with those style drain valves I came up with a way to hold the cables in the open position whenever the truck wasn't being used. Never had a problem with them freezing up and it gives the...

Sorry for not posting back sooner, been busy with work. I think I got it figured out. After checking everything that had been mentioned above and thinking everything over, I decided to start back at the beginning and re check EVERYTHING I had done to the fuel system since installing the motor...

The head on it is new.. I assume that it should be good? So I decided to postpone sleep and work on the truck this morning (I work nights, 8p-9a). I went ahead and tore down one of the governor assemblies on one of my parts pumps and pulled the springs on the pump on the truck and compared...

I absolutely agree this is the best approach. I just don't have the proper gauges to test the fuel pressures and I'm not a good enough mechanic to confidently do some of the things that are required in the troubleshooting list. If the governor doesn't turn out to be the issue, I have a NOS LDS...

Would this be a problem with the springs and shims or more likely to be a problem with the weights not opening and closing properly? I haven't had a chance to do any more troubleshooting on it, it spent a week at the shop getting a new set of tires and the weather and work have not been...

This thread will help, it's one of the stickies. The three orings that need to be replaced (fuel shutoff rod and two under the Hydraulic Head are for sale on the popular auction site. http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?69241-Removing-rebuilding-reinstalling-Hydraulic-Head

The fuel tank is clean and I am running straight diesel. I ruined an HH running WMO a few years back and have been running nothing but diesel since then, I posted a thread about it outlining the issues I was having then. I am religious about changing the fuel filters, I do it every 6 months...

I guess I should have put my repair list in chronological order. The last thing I did was put the new Hydraulic Head in with no change or improvement in the symptoms. I haven't attempted anything else since then.

Is there an easy way to test the HH without using pressure gauges etc.?