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IMO i would run the 82's especially since there is no manual available for 81
I have ran my 82 for 387 real hours, my timer is on the burner not the fan circuit. I also deleted the dinky fuel filter and the selector valve for tank and aux (it was sucking air)
82's have issues but we have...
She will live again, with much less piping and valves, we will build her back like a water tender not a fueler.
First things will be load and unload points on both sides, was given a lead for a larger pump that looks like it will bolt up.
I will also be contacting a Gorman-Rupp dealer...
So to preface this whole ordeal, we normally drained this trailer if temps were below 20*F
We use a M970 as a water tender to feed grass rigs chasing fires. Normally have zero issues with 20's , unbeknown to us the belly valve failed, stuck, had a catastrophic failure of some sort. As normal...
Update on a 'red light of death' issue
My A #1 heater thru a fit when I attempted to use it today, red light no start, throw a fit, red light, attempt to start, run 1-2 minutes, red light come on again, running good fuel psi at low psi, running good psi on heat, then throws red light.
ends up...
it doesnt hurt,..... that injector is a big hole, so unless you are burning used oil or ethylene glycol antifreeze thru your heater, it probably will never plug up. I have 387 real hours of run time on mine running d1, d2, k1, jp8, jp4, some oil, sometimes a whiff of gas from the bottom of the...
in post #21, baxter said a standard series mouse would work in place of keypad
" , I have learned a lot. One of my discoveries is that the keypad literally emulates a serial mouse. You can disconnect the keypad's db9 connector and plug in an old serial mouse instead and use that to move the...
I just ordered from my local parts house, nothing special about it. Ground is probably your issue, skrews are notorius for stripping, drill hole in top of sensor, then bolt ground to sensor not mounting bolts