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Thanks for your reply, that sounds exactly like what I need to do. Good luck on yours too. Jack

Here's a tip I got the other day on freeing a rusted engine. The guy who told me about it owns over 75 (yup, 75+) old John Deere tractors and has rebuilt many of them. He knows his stuff and I trust his word on all such things. He said when he starts to work on an engine that won't turn he...

Because this is a low-buck operation, I topped up the cooling systems on M220#1 and Boyce #1 with straight water. Both had good antifreeze in them when I started or they wouldn't have survived all the Idaho winters they lived through. Definitely have to remember to drain them and refill with...

Thanks for that, hoping it's that easy. The garden hose is hanging on the front bumper just in case . . .

I've been checking it at the crank pulley, hadn't thought about trying it at the flywheel, I'll give that a try when I check it next week.

Thanks for those tips. I'll check the valve lash and use the air. All plugs were out and gas pedal to floor when I checked the compression.

Drained the fuel tank yesterday. Hooked up the batteries for the first time, got pretty sparks when I touched the final ground cable to the battery post. Need to check into that a bit more.

Gasket set: I'll hunt one down Beverages: strictly water and diet coke during the day, an occasional cold beer after work is always good :beer: Band-aids: my hands cut and bleed easily so I wear gloves as often as I can, I've got band-aids stashed in my pockets, tool box, glove box, etc...

Yes. I hear you! I have to stop sometimes and sort them out myself. Here's a quick rundown on what I'm working on and what I call it: M220#1 - original 6 cylinder, 5 speed manual trans, engine is free but compression is almost non-existent, needs valve job, clutch master cylinder locked up...

Yeah, I wish I'd found the same results you did. I probably should have checked compression sooner, but I was so confident it was going to start up with just some ignition work that I blew right by that one. Oh well . . . Good photo, sitting in the engine compartment! I'm accustomed to...

Compression: not good Checked the compression in M220 #1 today, 0 - 60 pounds dry, no significant improvement wet. :( Checked with a local machine shop, gave me a range of $200 - $400 to do a valve job. Need to check with son-in-law to see how he wants to proceed. Jack

Thanks tstone, I'm looking forward to hooking up the batteries and see what happens, hope it's not too exciting!

Still using a squirt bottle with an occasional shot of starting fluid.

Update First, a good Independence Day to all! The little town (pop. less than 1,000) where we're staying does a great job of celebrating this day: pancake breakfast, parade on Main Street, town fair in the park, cookouts and fireworks. M220#1: still no go. I haven't started using my...

Yeah, I saw that too, makes me wonder if the switch is somehow set up to provide constant 24V to the fuel pump. I'll be putting batteries in later this week, we'll know something then.

Here's the actual switch in the truck The picture just came through, here it is: This is attached to the frame above the battery box. Is it a standard part on all trucks?

Series Parallel Switch I've done some more checking on the 12V alt question and I think I may have found the answer. There is a series parallel switch installed in the battery box of the truck. Here's a link to a short article that describes this type of switch: http://www.truckt.com...

Thanks Danl, I'll take a look at it. Jack

Steelypip: I'm thinking the same kind of thing, using 24v batteries for starter & fuel pump then recharging batteries at night. BikerBill: I see the same things, gauges, etc. may be 12 volt off the alternator. I'll have to track down some wires and see what the 12 volt is connected to.

Me too!