Search results

go to the parts counter section on the web site and scroll down they have cucv body parts

I think the 1/2 ton beds used smaller tailgate pivots hence the holes being closer together, looks to me like you could drill out another hole and fit your bracket? I measured the height from the bumper deck to the middle of the top hinge bolt is just over 5 1/2" on both sides, it's beggining...

here you go I hope this helps!

found this one of it out in big bear stuck in the snow!! my daughter likes to ride too, this trip I found out my gal is a better snow wheeler than I :p but I'll be danged if I didn't bring my shovel, "military trucks don't get stuck!!!!" :rolleyes:

well I'm glad to say that every thing went together without a hitch and everything works as should, ignition, dash light, start up!! [:)] :idea: :yeah: let me know if this would make a good tech article!! here the completed install

I tend to lean toward the m715 smaller than a duece bigger than a jeep open top and big giant wheel wells to fit 44" tires with a spring over, although they do have 16spline axles and closed knuckle dana 60 and that weak six banger, its a great platform for all around vehicle. ohh and the m1028...

everything on the fenderwell is the same yes, but the bracing is not included, it's important to attach the upper part of the batt holder to the side of the fender because the weight of the batt being thrown around is a bit much for the trays them selves to handle.

heres some pics I finished the front batt, I had some old shelf brackets sittin around so I just bent them up in the vice screwed em down holes already drilled!!, I grabbed each batt with both hands and gave it a couple of hefty tugs and they didn't budge. The only concern I have is the batt...

I think the civy's actually have one tray on the pass and one on the driver side, I took the support wire that bolts to the top tray holder (closest to the cab) and bent it down and took some threaded rod and made shorter rods to bolt the cucv tray top back on, the front batt I used the same...

the body is pretty straight, when I pulled the old body mount bushings to put new poly ones in I noticed that the rear cab brace that supports the whole back of the cab all the way across was split all the way up, right above the 2 bushings. This is causing the passenger side to sagg about 1/2"...

I am looking for a good 6.2 take out, I need the truck for work and dont have time for rebuild yet!, I know there are some on e-bay but I would like to inspect the engine before I buy and every one is out of state!!.. :smile:

here's my truck I did the paint job myself (can't you tell!) with dupont industrial paint, the green was alot darker on the swatch even after 3 coats it was still a wrigleys spearamint green so I had to overlay with black to get it to darken up, HEY are those 35" tires on the saggy old stock...

well I got most of the harness together, I just need to get the relay/controler, and the temp switch and splice the other half of the 6 pin block connector "white" onto the in cab wire loom. The white wire off the flat connector is for the temp switch and that will loop back to the red wire...

well a quick search and I found this http://dragonplate.com/ kind of a cool concept it looks like they only have 2' x 2' squares but says that you can order custom sizes. A little more $ than the vinyl stuff but it is the real thing, just do a search type in carbon fiber and see what you find...

with carbon fiber you can either do a "wet" lay up with laminating resin if you put the resin in the frige before you add catalyst and then make it a hot bach with lots of catlyst you can apply your resins and not have exessive runing, then after you pull it out of the mold add a couple of...

try calling these guys http://www.boyceequipment.com/ they might have a takeoff they can sell you??but some I have found them to be expensive on some things, worth a shot!!

a spray in liner is a great idea I would try and go as far up the interior firewall as possible and make it extra thick in that area "cut out some of the diesel noise" as far as interior goes the cut and bound carpet sounds good, I would try to cover as much area as possible again to reduce...

you should be able to expand the end of that hose enough to fit? if not then try using a piece of pvc or abs pipe with a couple of hose clamps to splice the old one together temporarily

its a good idea to replace the inectors and rebuild the injector pump every 100,000 miles replace the fuel filter every 10,000 and keep a back-up lift pump and pumprod the lift pump is an easy find about $30 to 50 I think and I had to get the pump-rod from the gm parts store about $22 dollars...

love the pimp interior carpet, other than that looks really clean!!! what's going on with the front end?? I wish they looked that clean here in cali!!