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Ok, I edited the original posts and it (hopefully) has everything in it. The seal I was referring to that I pried off was the grease seal that goes behind the inner bearing.

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When I got the drivers side drum off I discovered that the rear shoe had an uncomfortable amount of friction material missing, as well as the friction material starting to separate from the backing: I have no idea what caused this to happen, and I also didn't find the chunks of material in the...

Once your wheel bearings are packed and you've thoroughly cleaned and lubricated everything its time to go back together. Everything obviously goes back together the reverse of how it came apart. Make sure you pack everything with a generous amount of grease, and don't forget to use a grease gun...

As you can now see the new boot installed onto the axle housing with the inner clamp already tightened: Now from there you can reinstall the steering knuckle. It is a little bit of a pain to get the kingpin bushings and plates lined up while holding the steering knuckle centered. It can be...

After getting to this point you can remove the steering knuckle. Once again I unfortunately don't have pictures of this step. Its mostly straight forward. There are 4 bolts on the top of the knuckle and 4 on the bottom. Remove those bolts and the 2 plates (they have the grease fittings on them...

Well I was initially going to wait until I got the rear axles done and do one big write up, but its looking like its going to be a while before I'm going to be able to get to the rears. So I'm going to go ahead and do my write up for the fronts and do the rears later. I know this has been done...

I hear ya, I'm the same way going back and forth on what I'm wanting to do to our Deuce. Singling out the truck is most definitely going to be easier than going to a single axle.

Bingo. As long as you use the proper tools you won't damage anything.

Out of curiosity, why do you want a single rear axle full bed truck? Just for the look? If I were to do something along those lines, I'd do a quad cab conversion and cut the bed down. To each his own obviously, I'm just curious.

I have no clue, I do know whatever else uses them isn't very common. The NAPA I got mine from had 2 in stock (or at a different local store/warehouse) and the other 4 took almost a week to come in. EDIT: Nevermind, Rusty nuts found it.

NAPA part # UP4419 for the wheel cylinders. Most other parts places can cross reference that number.

Just shoot me a PM when you get back, I'd be happy to let you look at it. If its not -80° outside we can take it for a spin.

I do it constantly at work. A car can come in with a problem, and I just assume its something more complicated than it actually is because its ever so slightly different than said problem would normally be, spend a couple hours diagnosing it just to find out it was something really simple I...

Yeah, there really wasn't much to it. I just haven't run the hose yet, it was rather chilly today and I wasn't in the mood to crawl around under the truck. I'll get pictures of it when its all done and post them up.

Valid point, I was assuming he checked for flow at his filters.

I'm 28, at least until April. I wish I had found MV's back when I was 18, the money I blew on modifying my piece of crap car could have built a VERY nice truck.

Just got my remote reservoir mostly installed. I just need to run the hose to the master cylinder. We ended up mounting it the firewall right near the access door, also put in a 1/4" ball valve on a 90 degree with a T fitting. I completely brain farted and forgot to take pictures, but basically...

In the original post he said he can hear it when he turns the power on. So I would assume its working.