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M936 spade test Just incase anyone was interested - it's just physics...

Do a thread search for "ESMET fitting" - it's all been documented and they are still manufactured so a factory tech instructional sheet is published. Just make sure to use the little window hole to ensure depth.

Just a thought - and I can go measure mine - but is there any chance someone swapped your front for a rear levelwind roller frame? That would give you a large gap for sure!!!

No cable on mine at the moment - but I threw on a strap to show correct routing, also a pic of trolley for you to see roller clearance from earlier query. Mine is mechanical (M816), but the winch / set up is the same - it should load from the back and pull down - anticlockwise looking from...

Er no - it's not wound right or threaded through the level wind/tensioner wrong. Pic too close. Either direction, the cable should leave the drum and go to the level wind cleanly (straight line from drum tangent to tangent of level wind pulley).

Two relevant threads :- Level Wind maintenance anomaly, Front Winch : https://www.steelsoldiers.com/threads/level-wind-maintenance-anomoly-front-winch.89201/ Rear Level Wind Servicing Tips: https://www.steelsoldiers.com/threads/rear-level-wind-servicing-tips.130527/

I just went to Wallyworld/craft store, got a sheet of felt from the fabric section. Cut out "washers" and stacked them up to make the thickness. They only keep the grease clean from crap from outside.

I have rebuilt both of mine (M816) and did a thread on each in the 5 ton forum. Needle roller bearing free up, lube point upgrade, possible bearing replacement etc.

Your observations are valid, though unless the "bridge" rails are bowed - larger gap at the top than either lower ends, I personally wouldn't worry too much. If you 'shim' the rollers further out, you will unload part of the rollers needle bearing, thus overload the remainder which is not...

Using an electric winch would be an option, especially if you had something with elastic properties between the two it would indicate when you needed to pull with the 'helper' winch. Pay out the drag winch and keep flicking the electric winch controller to re-tension the connection as it pulled...

20 Ton bottle jacks....

In. Thanks Dave.

Personally - I do prefer the use of the pintle hook for a Quick Detach receiver hitch as in the pic - it leaves the originality of the vehicle, no drilling or welding and only use it when towing a civi trailer, simple and quick and it's way strong and designed for towing. If you want to pull a...

Unfortunately, Rustoleums "Army green" camouflage is a little light!

Doug - just using 816 as a jig. Made it for a fellow S/S'er.

Paint currently drying. Hopefully there isn't too much deviation between the pintle hook/retaining nut location and the two shackle brackets. They measured pretty close. May get a pic of the finished hitch mounted on the 816 tomorrow, then on Allies M932 when I can make the return trip.

Allie in NJ contacted me about a dismountable hitch for his M932. I went down and made some measurements of height required and possible "structures" available on his tractor. Strict requirement that it be easily removable so as to retain originality for shows etc., with the minimum of...

I am just about done with a QD mount hitch for a M932 that utilises the inner pintle hitch large nut and the outer shackle brackets for a triangulated 2"reciever. Pics soon will give you my approach.. Cross reference for M932 QD Hitch:-...

Not too much - as I chain drilled the perimeter of the hole saw path to reduce the amount it had to cut. Just went steady, plenty of oil.

Best fix with out taking off bumperette. Long 2"x 8" cut to a taper to wedge between inside of bumperette and head of shackle pin. Mark with hole saw then chain drill with small drill (1/8") to reduce offset material that hole saw will struggle with since it's not cutting balanced full hole...