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Jim, I can't remember if the removal/reattachment procedures are covered in the TMs or not, but I'd think they are. Either way, it's fairly straightforward if you look at how they're attached. Then again, depending on what cylinders aren't working, you may not be able to remove either one...

Jim, it's been covered on the main (Owner's) thread in various forms over time. Yeah, it's a lot of reading, but aside from my posts, mostly very good info. I'll counter with a question: Why would you want to remove the attachments??? It's a heck of a lot easier to remove and install cylinders...

You certainly have more patience than I do. Right or wrong, I expect them to start...as long as the batteries are in decent shape. Especially the Winter SEE, which seems to inject ether without even doing anything with the knob. Love that smell, by the way.

That is good, straight steel. It can be used for all kinds of projects, so don't toss it. Instead, bring it with you when you come here and study air lines and such.

If your covers have been off for any amount of time, keep in mind that mud dobbers like to make their nests in places like that, effectively closing the air flow off.

Maybe you're just trying to do it too fast? I know I did the first time, and it was violent. I'd think that reversing the lever too late could be the main cause. And running high rpm could make it trickier, I suppose.

Funny you mention the latching, since yesterday I was a bit surprised over how nicely the Summer SEE latched - with me standing on the ground, reaching over to the lever, and the engine at about 800 rpm. It was completely smooth and practically noiseless. Anyway, yes, you may need to work some...

Ron, just found this "auto saved" post which apparently never got anywhere. Well, I can't say that I have traced the air lines back from the front gladhands to see where they go. I took for granted that they'd work just like on Class 8 trailers, and they do. Also, I must admit that I lost...

Indeed, the trick when using ether is to already have an air hose ready. As you noticed, otherwise the tire often comes off again. It helps a bit to remove the Schrader valve, providing an air inlet. Removing the Schrader valve helps a lot when reseating or mounting tires, but requires an air...

Indeed, it's two inches wider. But so is the tire, so other than having an "extra safety bead" to deal with, it's no different than seating a stock tire on a stock wheel. It would've been easier to do with the tire on the ground, but I was too lazy to take the wheels off.

Sure glad I had that Astra bead seater yesterday. Even with its superior performance it took three tries to get a tire re-seated.

I think you could've skipped the JB Weld part. A dust cover that fits can't really go anywhere anyway, being squeezed between the tie rod end and what it ends up installed on. Well, at least it works well that way in other applications.

It's interesting how the numbers for the SEE varies. At first I remember reading 2,600-something, then 2,300-something, and now we're down to 2,086. For the HMMH it has held steady at 164. while the HME went from 12 to 13. I forgot about the 419.104. As I recall, it was a more or less implement...

If there's no missing line, you're obviously good. But, the one you want to use wouldn't go to the brake booster - that sounds like the gladhand that activates the brakes as needed. The other one is used to supply air to the tanks and the one that is the ideal way to fill the tanks from an...

Oops, my mistake. It's an Astra, not Esco.

I think this would've fit nicely in the "FLU tire" thread, but either way, an Esco beadblaster may prove more useful than the tire irons. At least for those who already have some sort of decent tire tools. Of course, there's always starting fluid.

You don't need another vehicle with air brakes. I frequently move trailers (with air brakes) using whatever vehicle is suitable, and a portable air tank. Although, for me, towing a FLU would be with a cobbled up tow bar anyway since I can't easily tow with a strap by myself, so no need for air.

There's no need to make the entire trailer brake part of the system operational, just the air feed. It is one line. Aside from a very convenient (and correct) way to put air into the system, that feed can be used if you ever get towed with a strap or chain, for example, want power assisted...

I wouldn't say that replacing one measly air line is a lot of trouble, and it most certainly can't be labeled as expensive. Not even if buying the line from Grainger. I also wouldn't say that having the front gladhands operational has no benefit. Anyway, removing one of the (to me) useless...

Not that I think you'll normally use the front gladhands other than as an easy way to fill and troubleshoot the system, but if someone removed part of the air line, why not replace it?