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Try removing the tubing at the other end instead. That way you'll know if any air makes it through, and it may help blow some crap out.

Sounds to me like your regulator is doing what it should, but the air never makes it over to the tanks.

Supposedly right at the cylinder's connections.

When I first got mine, I must've stepped on the right pedal at least three times when climbing up - and that was before I learned to keep the rpms down. Either way, I'm somewhat surprised that I haven't killed or maimed myself with a SEE yet. If I use the high idle switch, it's when I get bored...

I'm guilty of operating the pedals by hand, while standing on the ground, somewhat frequently. With my knees and back I'm more likely to hurt/kill myself getting up on and off the machine, I think. Besides, I run mine at 900-1,200 rpm for the most part, so nothing moves quickly. Still, it's not...

Hint: It's by far the largest thread here. If you can't find that one, you probably shouldn't have a SEE.

Also keep in mind that many measure rim width outside to outside, which isn't correct. It's supposed to be bead to bead, as the tire sees it.

Okay, too far to drive a FLU over here, but not all that far with a road worthy vehicle, either. Post some pics, would you, and maybe give me/us an idea of what you expect to do with your SEE. Have you started reading the lengthy but very informative "Owners" thread yet?

If it doesn't leak so badly that it comes out faster than you can fill it, just add to the level plug and call it done. Okay, so I don't remember. But where in NM are you?

Hmm. Never even considered doing that. I've been buying the filters for about $35, with the housing, so it never dawned on my to try cleaning them. Now I know what to do with the old ones.

Johan, while you're picking it apart, would you consider selling a right hand door, too?

I have a short Hi-Lift jack with the proper attachment to use on the mount on the stand. And maybe that's what I used when removing the loader. Either way, you want some stability, and a basic Hi-Lift is anything but stable.

Johan, all you really need is a stick of 2x4 rectangular tubing and a cheap trailer jack. I used the kind that's pinned on, so I could use one of the jacks I already have. Can't remember if I bought or made the mount for it. Probably bought, since there's no need for the horizontal holes in the...

I figured you did, since you probably know the system better than anybody here. Of course, that's largely because you've had the worst luck with yours, I suppose.

Well, to use the glad hands to put air into the system you have to use the inlet (front) ones. Sounds like you may have tried the rear ones.

Since I reached the point where I could work the FLUs more than work on them, I haven't kept up with the threads like I should. But if Johan gets that loader off (and lives to tell about it), then sells it to me, I could hopefully document whatever modifications it needs to accommodate the snow...

You can do it, Johan. Just keep in mind that the lift should be from the vehicle end of the loader, not closer to the bucket. Those lower mounts aren't vertical, and even if they were, they'd fight back. I probably used a strap on the uppermost tubing, not wanting to have anything in the...

That looks like fun, peakbagger. Well, the part where you used the backhoe. The rest makes me appreciate my trailers that much more.

Wish I remembered how and with what I lifted mine. May have used the trailer jack mount I incorporated into the stand, or it could've been with the crane. Either way, once the very stubborn bolts came off, the rest was easy.

Hey, there's lots of open spaces by the backhoe, and for a front valve I would probably mount it on the floor.