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so i went and found the video i bought to rebuild chev trans, but its only for the th350. Its pretty good at walking you thru a rebuild, dont know how similar the 350 and 400 are, but if you would like i can try and find a way to download a vhs, other wise there might be a video out there some...
most electrical probs can be traced back to poor connections and grounds, before i spent any money on new starter i would clean all connections, that includes the two on your starter. if you do hit your starter with a hammer remember not to hit it to hard as you may crack stuff inside, and also...
im from pierce county, and i also can not go, ill be down in lacrosse working for the next couple weeks. when driving the 1009 home i could not belive how much quieter it is then my 1008 .
i went down to fort mccoy today and picked up my m1009 i won back in april. mike from gl is a terrific person to deal with, if only there were more like him we would all be better off. any way went down with truck and trailer just in case, but man did she run great, drove her three hours home...
wow i like that console going to look for parts right now, i also just replaced the front output seal on t-case, seems the gaurdsman that worked on it put it in backwards now no more leak
jack up the vehicle and look for play at all four wheels and also spin each wheel and listen and feel for any roughness, unless you have hubs locked in or trans-case in 4whl your front axle u-joints should not affect you this way, did you check your fluid level in transfer case.
if you dont have a spindle puller and slide hammer i would suggest you try to rent one or you may have some difficulty removing the spiddle, if one is not availible a block of wood and a hammer will work but hard and time consuming. good luck
i would suggest holding your money and finding a set of full floater 3/4 axels front end rear. i believe 1973 to 1987 will work in the 1009, they are cheap and plentiful, also a bolt in deal, you will need to either change your u-joint on the rear dshaft, cant remember the number but i think i...
i read these posts in complete amazment, first why would you take a chance with things you payed hard earned money for or put others on the road in danger, just because a blazer fits on a trailer dose not mean you can haul it. those short u haul trailers do not allow you to set your tounge...
when ever we took these types of hub rotos off we always repacked the bearings and replaced the seal, cheap ins. and that seal is prob. ready to be replaced any ways
alot of times you can use a small flat head screw driver or a pick and just turn out the rest of the pin. have had to do this many times, but that kit sounds cool.
silly question but did all of the retaining bolt come out it should be about 2 or 3 inches with a rounded end. those axles are c-clip axles and some in and out play is normal.
ok just reread the install directions for the ezlocker i installed in my 85 chev half ton with the same axles. you should not need to remove the carrier with 308 gears, it also says you can leave the ring gear side axle in place but i did not because i replaced the u-joints while i had it torn...
veary simple to install a lockright or ez locker just remove axle shafts, bolt holding cross shaft , cross shaft and all spider gears than install locker. no need to remove carrier as 308 gears are large enough to allow you to fit the locker in with out having to remove it. simple and reliable...