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Okay, exhaust heat wrap then. It's just easier to obtain then seat belts.

Bicycle inner tube would work as well, and much easier to obtain.

Agree with porkysplace. It sounds like one of the short rubber lines on top of or around the tank leaking.

I like it!!

WOW!! Holy botch job. Agree with earlier comments, Front bushings are worn out, and add a leaf is done wrong. But if you do the ORD shackle flip you may end up having to cut down your drive shaft, I just had to with mine. I'd do the flip before buying a drive shaft.

Well I would say the fastest & easiest way to check would be to remove all the glow plugs, and pressure check the radiator. If it does blow coolant into a cylinder you'll know right away, either by sound or coolant running out. Then if you want to still run it for a while, you can disconnect the...

Before doing the crossover swap I had my sensor mounted in the water pump and it would never read higher then 160°. Now it reads 190° to 210° depending on how much work I'm putting through.

Unfortunately the only place to get a truly accurate overall reading is to mount your sensor just behind the thermostat. And that requires a HMMWV coolant crossover swap. They can be had on Ebay for around $50.00

Unless they changed something again when I wasn't looking :roll:, I thought all DOT-5 was purple now? The original DOT-5 was a yellowish color. I would recommend for your sanity replacing all bleeder screws with Russell speed bleeders. Also I found SSBC had good DOT-5 for cheaper then NAPA.

Sounds like your air leak is before the filter. However I wouldn't waste much time looking for the leak. Just replace *ALL* the rubber fuel lines, and the pump. All the rubber parts, and gaskets on these trucks are dry rotted. You"ll come to find that 90% of the problems you'll experience with...

Yeah this has bin going on for about 3 months now. I was also theorizing that it mite be RPM related? Perhaps turning too many RPM's on the highway? That maybe going to a 33" tire mite have an effect?:shrugs:

Okay before we start here's all the parameters (M1028,..(Banks turbo),.. (Gear vendors O.D).,.. (31" tires),.. (new all aluminum Rad),..... So the problem I'm having goes like this.. When driven on short trips around town (55-70 MPH), the temp stays between 190°-195° and all's normal. The...

Agree, just bevel the edges, tack it in place, remove, and weld it up. when you reinstall it, make sure to get all the bolts good and tight. Also make sure to use thread lock on the pump bolts. Stuff like this usually breaks when they get loose and vibrate.

Understood, Its just been my experience as well as most anybody I ask that the products they sell under the "Duralast" name. Have bin faulty or problematic with a typical life span of about a month:shrugs:. Batteries, brake pads, plug wires, water pumps, etc. I only shop with them as a last...

Man I feel you on that, I can't wait till fall when I can actually get some work done. I'd watch out for those Autozone "lifetime" warranty stuff though. Especially electrical stuff. You may end up replacing it once a month.

Oh Yeah, those rivets are a nightmare! I feel your pain it, took me a Full day to get the 8 out for the ORD shackle flip kit using 3 drill bits and a punch.

I just went through this with my M1028. If you call ORD they will ask you to measure your axle tube and spring pack to match the U-bolt kit you'll need. Recovry4x4 is correct YOU WILL have clearance problems with the U-bolt plate hitting the bump stop. You can either simply remove the bump...

How exactly does this help cooling? It seems to me your simply bypassing the thermostat?

Yeah it takes a rugged dude to own and drive one of these trucks, at least that's what I tell my wife. I would check the brake pads, and make sure the calipers can slide first and foremost. And add a temp gauge next.

They did another one....https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mCyIAk112GA