Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!
Microsoft MSN, Live, Hotmail, Outlook email users may not be receiving emails. We are working to resolve this issue. Please add support@steelsoldiers.com to your trusted contacts.
I used a piece of trim coil (thin piece of aluminum) about 8" x 24". Hold it where the rim meets the rubber and shift it around the rim as needed. I did mine while mounted on the truck, so it got the lug nuts and hub at the same time. Really fast and easy. Learned this trick here on SS.
If the bolts are frozen even after the PB Blaster and you can't just break them with the wrenches, you could cut them off with a 4" angle grinder with a thin metal cutting blade. Make sure you are using eye protection.
My can of Rustoleum Rusty Metal Primer says 24 hours drying before recoat at 70 degrees and 50 percent humidity. I would not assume that that those instructions includes topcoating with a water based house paint. Others and myself on this topic have advocated waiting 3 days and up to a week...
The TM is here:http://test.steelsoldiers.com/upload/trailer/TM9-2330-201-14.pdf. Like you said, it's your trailer, so do what you want. My opinion is that everything you are considering is reversible (ie:wiring, tires/rims) except for modifying the fenders. If you were to go back to the 16"...
For Diverman-The 24087 is a single color. It is the Korean War/Vietnam era semi-gloss olive drab and was used as a solid color vs. a camo pattern. The colors used on the MV's differ depending on what era you want to depict on your truck. Since you said you wanted a "pattern" I assume you want...
For Diverman-The 24087 is a single color. It is the Korean War/Vietnam era semi-gloss olive drab and was used as a solid color vs. a camo pattern. The colors used on the MV's differ depending on what era you want to depict on your truck. Since you said you wanted a "pattern" I assume you want...
I won 2 in December from Mac Dill. One was $195 and the other was $225. plus fees. The guy from GL was kind enough to stack one on the other for us saving us another trip. It was pretty sketchy for the pickup (one ton Dodge w/V10) because we had no trailer brakes.
What Steve said. A lot of the decision making depends on current condition and desired results. Sandblasting is probably not necessary unless you have a lot of rust or are going for a museum quality restoration. You can spot treat rust by scraping then sandblasting or using phosphoric...
Yeah, the green on the bumper on the left one looks right on with mine. I can't really tell about the brown from your pic. I didn't think about it before, but I have a friend who painted a deuce with the Gillespie recently and I'll take some paint sample cards over to that truck and see what I...
That looks a lot darker than the Carc on the underside of my truck as well. Mine appears to have a lot more yellow in it. I wish I had a good sample of what the brown should be. My brown and black on the topside of the truck is pretty faded.
I got the same answer. Went to my local SW and they checked with the industrial lines rep and he told them there was some kind of shop certification required to purchase it.
Another reason for using an airless besides not having to thin the paint is not having to keep the gun mostly vertical as you would with a conventional cup gun or hvlp rig which is beneficial if you are having to paint under the truck. Luckily the paint on the underside of my truck is in really...