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Bittersweet, for sure. At least the museum is likely to take care of the trucks as opposed to a random buyer with plans to "improve" them into rock-climbing contraptions or mud bog rigs.
I started off with VW Beetles that had oil bath filters. I guess they "worked" to some extent because there was indeed sludge forming in them but I was always questioning how well they actually kept particles out of the intake.
Back then, an engine would not be expected to run 250k km or miles...
I wonder if something in the old intake collapsed under load to make it suffocate so badly. The new air cleaner setup looks like you harnessed a 500hp beast under that hood! :)
@pitpawten If you have not done so, yet, having the cooling system filled with water would be the time to remove the thermostat, pop a couple of Cascade capsules into the radiator and drive the truck up to operating temp for a good 20-30 minutes. Let cool down, then pop the lower rad hose off...
Unlocking the hubs helps a great deal with wear and tear in the front axle shaft area as well. The military solution of permanently locked in hubs , while soldier B proof, is not the most equipment-friendly.
The extra grease lubricates the thrust washers and contact surfaces of the axle shaft. They do not seem to enjoy running dry.
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If your engine block is a "TD" casting, the bolts should all be tightened to the higher specs. One reason for re-designing the block and going to the "thick deck" was that the engines were blowing head gaskets like they were going out of style. The clamping force provided by the head studs was...
There is a ball valve in the plumbing hidden behind the bumperette. Verify that this valve is on. They can get very stiff due to non-use. Also, the rubber seal on the gladhand can become hard. Every truck stop carries replacement seals.
The "Service" gladhand pressurizes when the service brakes are activated (i.e. the brake pedal is depressed), the "emergency" gladhand delivers air all the time.
You are better off re-using the rubber valve cover gaskets. They are re-usable by design, maybe clean gently and spray with rubber revival compound of your choice. The valve covers need not be ape tight; just enough for the thick rubber gasket to seal. I would stay away from RTV for the valve...
Oh, if the return lines are that hard, then they will also be brittle. Do yourself a favour and replace them with 1/4" DOT air line while you are at it. DOT line holds up to diesel just fine. The original lines are nylon/polyamide if you are a purist.
Super simple to do and it takes away the...
While the finding of water is disconcerting, you were in fact super diligent and discovered that before running the engine for any extended length of time. That most certainly avoided further complications.
A headgasket failure where coolant enters the oil stream results in oil becoming...
Yup, unfortunately that is very common with these frames. I don't look at mine, so I do not have that problem. No, seriously, I rehabbed mine a few years ago and they are almost due for the next round. I tried sealing the glass/frame interface with clear silicone to prevent water from seeping...