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Nice and clean battery box area(y) and the relocation (y)(y) Not a fan (n)of all the RTV on the bus bar, But that's another story📖
Something to think about :unsure: That front battery?? What I am seeing:3dAngus:from the easy internet chair💺......
If one make a HARD stop, it MIGHT slip forward...
Not to step on toes... With pump in the truck place cover just forward of housing (about 1/2 inch). (reference front of truck)
Top cover will nest and drop down (with solenoid lever into the linkage. Note a preload - spring back to forward as one slips top cover to the rear (1/2 inch +/- )...
Not wanting to be a buzz kill... But that IP needs a lot more in the clean department. 🧼 There's some critical / precision below the picture shown. Rebuild it is the word. If that's the pump...what does the tank to the input to the pump look like ??
The cleaning lady needs to get to that bath...
Little note... Looking at the pictures of the old ones with the locking clamp (tie rod, out board location, next to wheel) might need to be rotated around to clear rubbing / hitting on lip of rim in a tight turn. (might) 🔧🛠 Thread post #2
Can't find my glasses to hear, CAMO 🙈🙉
Radios "Could be Us" TRC-77 might not be the one you want? Here's some info >
https://www.n6cc.com/trc-77-hf-cw-transceiver/
More or LESS usable would be the PRC-77 a combat net voice radio. A bit more readily available / usable for mobile operation with accessories.
What's your call sign...
Quickie lookie cutaway of the goings on with glow plug, injector, pre-chamber, valves, springs, piston and other doo hickies and a space man.
Sooo that's how it works :unsure: 💡(y):oops: Brought to you by, CAMO
Which pump are we working with ? I am old school to keep the HumV pump part factory Chevy / Delco / Carter . They work well and understood.
Haven't had priming problems with a quality lift pumps. (no leaky lines) Now the internal pump/checking valves could get gummed up gunk without...
Another CAMO tip of the day. This might not go over well with the OEM crowd. But :unsure: about it.
Here's what I do do. One time and last! Drop the tank. Clean and ready as needed. DITCH the SOCK. I can hear it now 🙉.
Where the check valve is (3/8 line) Yeah... the one causing problems...
I can bet more rods have been snapped off / busted... if the story was told. Hacksaw blade sounds like it would be in the way. LOL
Always grease your rod first, CAMO
I am going to ask this question... Cuz I want to understand the need for converting down to 12 Volts when dual voltage alternator rigs can handle an extra couple of amps say 5-6 and a peak current of 25 amps for the back and forth time one would only be transmitting.
It's a two-way thing...
I am re-posting my PM to help add to the confusion or help others understand. (y) Many way to go about it :unsure: 💡
Your M1123 with a dual output alternator with the 14 volt balancing tap connected correctly and quality batteries is the easiest, most reliable, cost effective. IMO
That...
The mist / sprayers do work... But with the HARD water here if it get on the glass one is going to need a needle scalier to get it off.
Cool beers work better, CAMO
Click is solenoid pulling in. Doesn't mean metering valve is free.
Study the DB2 pump operation > https://media.defense.gov/2014/Jun/20/2002655917/-1/-1/1/140620-N-ZZ182-6558.pdf
There could be one or a chain of little issues to resolve any problem. Poking around for a quick fix might not...
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Peeking over your shoulder... :unsure:
Parked for a couple of month ?
Older fuel ?
Will not start now. IMO :unsure: this can be something to consider. The bio-mixed diesel with 5-25% crap, low sulfur, lubricants and any water (there is some water ) to...
Good luck on your fuel problem. Working one here too. On a slightly different note, another GOOD LUCK finding a quality USA pump. Even AC Delco made in Korea. One had a cheap ass crimp ring that came off the lever arm end... and that ruined the day. Lasted about 3 month. Good on the...