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Nice work. I used the same diff covers front and rear and Lube Locker gaskets. Only issue was on the front cover. I recall one hold being slightly off and needed a little file work to open the hole up. Before you put your gaskets on, double check all the bolts will thread in.

Too bad you were not in the San Diego area, I would have welded that for free. Looking like you are getting things together.

Thanks for all the pics. Looks very nice. Two things I am curious about. First, it seems there is not really a glove box, in the sense it is very shallow and not likely very useful. Second, if the stock heater core box is tight, I would guess an aftermarket A/C system is not likely going to...

Great job on all the stuff you are doing. Going to be a CUCV mechanic in no time.

Cool, thanks. Hey, looking at the last pic with the wiring down the A pillar, is the a DIY4x4 dash kit? If so, more pics and how do you like it and what issues did you run into, installing it?

I don't have the size and lengths as I haven't pulled my off yet but they are captive nuts since I have pulled my interior panels and insulation. They are welded to a metal plate, that is then attached to the box. My guess is 5/16" based on what I saw poking threw.

How well did that head liner work out? Been thinking about one of those as well.

That's what I have sitting in my garage to swap into mine. :)

Yeah, gotta love GM. Hit and miss sometimes on things. I do think all true 4x4 trans cases have the thicker cover flange and the 3 threaded bolt bosses on each side. This is to help keep the case from cracking (when using the correct cast cover) from the extra leverage of the transfer case.

Pull the driveshaft and take it to get checked and balanced. If it is okay, put new u-joints in. My M1010 had a similar vibration but the shaft "looked" straight. I mounted a GoPro type camera on the frame, pointing back to view the driveshaft. Sure enough, there was a slight bend it in that...

I think that is a 2WD trans case that was rebuilt into a 4x4 unit. That flange where those bolts should go through on the trans, is way too thin compared to a 4x4 trans case. Not sure if you can see it but on the upper right side of the case should be case in a HD letters. Here is a pic I...

Depending on the brand, that is a DIN style mount and you will need the "keys" that will slide in on the left and right edge area, that will release from the mounting cage, assuming it was installed like a normal DIN radio. Might search online for DIN removal tool but if you know the brand, you...

Great to hear surgery went well. Very scary where the are working. One wrong thing could have bad results. Heal up well. Looking forward to truck progress.

Yep 100% agree. I did not know about this issue back when I did this project on my first M1010. I will be upgrading cables on my current M1010. Bought 2/0 gauge wire, which is more than acceptable for the load and length. Good reminder for those going to 12v systems.

Adding my wiring diagram that I used on this M1010 build. This might not fit your needs if you do your setup different than I did mine but I was asked about it and I cannot paste it into a PM. This is a single alt, dual batteries with a isolator between the batteries but would be connected...

Plan C = Don't even plan on that. Beyond being unsafe, it is likely illegal and wouldn't work well anyways. No steering box on a vehicle is using any type of pin to prevent it from rotating. Too much force. Plan B = I have not heard of anyone doing that. I believe the 2WD and 4WD pitman...

I picked up a lightly used GV OD and installed it on my M1010. It has really made it better for driving as 65mph is 2500-2600 RPM with 33" tires. If you have stock 31" tires, you can add about 300 or so RPM's to those numbers. I am running 255/85-16 tires (33") which require no lift and they...

cucvrus is correct. The M1010 does have a specific lower hose, that is designed to clear the lower alt belt. It dips a little more than the standard M1008 or civilian model. I picked up mine as NOS off EBay. They are not made anymore so you will have to find someone who has a NOS available...

I have switched over to Ni-Cop brake lines and have had zero issues. So much easier to work with, flair (don't overdo the flaring since they compress much easier than steel, in the flaring tool) and don't rust. I buy it in 25' roles.

What are you using for paint?