Search results

Sounds like you already made your decision regardless of what other people are saying. Go buy them and be happy. If you're not happy, well you were warned.

Got the rest of the box stripped down.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07KQQ3BTG This is a German made one, actually sold by Badger Diesel via Amazon

I recently ran into a run/die/no start issue and it was the fuel shutoff solenoid. Replaced it and running again.

Sweet. Welcome to the M1010 club!

Already removed the heater and pass side bench a couple weeks back and started removing wall panels in the M1010 this past weekend. One wall and roof to go.

Sweet!

Yep, that looks good. I haven't done a slave setup but all of my mechanical clutch setups had a return spring.

If you are lucky. It could wear the area on the fork. Been there, seen that.

That is the gear reduction starter.

That is a drain hole and should be there. Typically if dripping from there, it would be the rear main seal is leaking. This hole allows it to drip out so you don't fill the area the cover is, full with oil. Typically rear mains will leak while the engine is running and once off it will stop...

Agree, big enough hammer anything will fit. LOL I am going an easier way with mine. Gen VI 454 big block. Since it was a factory option, it should fit without any issues.

You actually want something there to allow the fork to pivot as the rod moves in and out. Without the wedge or something, that nut will eventually wear into the arm and possibly bind. What I did on another project trans swap was to take a piece of solid round rod (big enough to allow the rod...

One thing I read about the Duramax swaps is they are a very wide engine. This can cause problems getting them to fit in some applications.

If you are converted to 12v and the starter actually turns over and started the engine, you have a 12v starter. A 24v one won't even engage at 12v. Fuel gauges is likely a wiring (i.e. bad grounds, loose connections) or a sending unit problem.

Wanted to close this problem out. I got the new solenoid in (bought a German made one versus China). Took me two times to get the cover installed without anything binding up. Once I did, I checked the solenoid was clicking as it should be and it was. Happy with that, I started the process to...

Yeah, that was my next thought, if the TO bearing is not the issue, is the fork wrong for the application. Transmission swaps are always fun. LOL

Sounds like you have a short throw out bearing and you need a long one. I ran into this problem on another build I did.

The fuse labeled #17. That was blown and I had no power to the fuel cutoff solenoid. I replaced that fuse and I had power to the solenoid.

Spent more time yesterday troubleshooting why the M1010 won't start. Pulled the glow plugs so it can crank easily. Checked and cleaned the return valve so I know it is working. Used about 3-4psi of air pressure on the return line at the pump to the tank. At first it seemed plugged. After a...