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Damn! That's quite an event! Got pics?

I used a HUMVEE crossover tube to add coolant sensor.

Yeah, they said the same thing when I talked to them at the Adventure Expo back in mid Feb. Turbos are their issue.

I put in a headlight relay setup so full battery voltage gets to the headlights (makes them brighter) and it takes all the load off the headlight switches. They last forever. GM headlight wiring issues have been a common issue for decades.

Ummm... not sure where you got this info but the correct fan to shroud placement is to have 1/2 to 3/4 of the fan outside of the edge of the shroud. If in too far, it will actually block airflow and cause it to run hotter. You might want to do some research before you consider the fan location...

So... unless you have the diagnostic tool, why keep that plug in the truck at all? I recall removing it from my first M1010 which has a connector up under the dash, which will unplug that under dash plug. Then remove it and the mount and nothing more to worry about. Just a thought and one...

I originally put Toyo Open Country MT 255/85-16 on stock wheels and they fit great. Unfortunately one of the wheels was bent so I found a set of aluminum wheels in 16x7 size (stock is 16x6.5) and they worked great as well. No rubbing whatsoever. No lift, stock suspension. Stock wheels...

I found this is a good video on doing the vent windows. I like the fact that this guy does not remove the pivot hinge rivet but the main bracket for the pivot. Seems like it is an easier way of doing this.

Known a couple people (not CUCV) who have had tank failures out offroading. One had the tank near the upper hose explode. Other had one tank split from the core. Both had very long tow strap rides to a point a tow truck could get them. I had mine just re-cored and the tubes inside were a...

yeah, they added a slide out with the pop top. Wish I could find interior shots.

I have wanted to do a raised/popup roof since I had my first 1010. Not sure how easy it would be. Only pic I have run across with a popup was this one. I think it was in Europe.

Is that back to back starting attempts or over the course of multiple hours? If back to back (or relatively short time) it might be a heat induced issues where the solenoid or relay is heating up and sticking.

That's a neat idea.

Good luck! I don't think many were made and not sure any made it into HMMWV's. If you happened to find a new one, I had seen prices of $12,000. This is the ultimate 6.5 series engine but sadly they stopped producing almost as fast as they started.

I bought and recently installed one on my M1010. Haven't gotten the new gauges in so not sure what temp I am running but figured it would be good to keep temps balanced.

Yeah, my first M1010 had a problem with bad vacuum lines and modulator. I did the lines first and then had to do the modulator.

Thanks. A lot of places sell them (I think even Amazon) but I get them from the source as they are local to me. http://www.k4direct.com/indicator-dash-lights.html

I did what the OP is looking to do on my first M1010. I converted the truck to 12 volt only and wanted to keep the two isolated when the truck was off, so if one battery died (bad cell) it would not suck both batteries down. I used a Blue Sea solenoid (500 amp continuous, 2000 surge). It...

So which model are you using? On both Energy Suspension and Prothane, I am not finding engine mounts listed for the 6.2. Are you using big block (454) or what?

Yes. Very heavy spring inside to prevent the valve from "floating" when at higher RPM's.