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Having not had my hands on a FMTV cover Im not sure.... but would suspect that while they are canvas.... they are liklely also PVC coated unlike the past. If that is the case then a dye likely won't work. And dieing light color over dark???? not sure that works anyway.

Polyurethane/elastomeric paints I do believe is the recommendation. here is an example https://www.polymarine.com/advice/superflex-flexible-pvc-paint/ Finding similar formula w/out it being heavily aimed to the boating world (big price mark up in that industry) and you likely can bring the...

curious how this seems to not fit experience of competitive offroaders who use 12v winches at 24v..... same task asked of it..... just done faster .. and it is a race; fast is good in that case... but they also replace winch motors more often. Maybe the fast part they find an advantage is...

Seems to me the most cost effective is to paint the Cargo Cover to match best you can. Those covers are heavy .... shipping expensive. Nothing wrong with trying first though. Put the word out and see who bites?

it is the same nightmare of buying any ol' beat on 20+yr old truck. How much of a nightmare will be based on how much it seems to have been road hard and put up wet. This won't matter if it is a 6wheel truck or a 4wheel truck. smalllllll advantage to 6wheel truck cause of less driveline...

found that many jumper cables will fit inside a large Anderson plug. that will give you even more options.

???? learn something everyday... have been wrong before. Likely will again. yet. this seems opposite of everything have read about using 24v on 12v winches by competitive offroaders...... winch and starter motor are both DC so confused

Not relevant to situations with these trucks since starter is already 24v..... but in general...... ifff engine turns....... 24v will speed up the existing ability to turn of a 12v starter.... 24v on 12v, 36v on a 24v motor etc.. will NOT increase the torque/power.. only the speed. Which...

first step.... search and read discussions on the fan.... plethora of discussions on them and their clutch. second step.... get and fiddle thru the TM's (or is that first?) They can be found via the first page of Steel Soldiers. Very first forum. yes as a protective measure the fan defaults...

ok..... so the two Positives then instead in this case?

great song..... need to add that back to my Karaoke list lol

looks like if a disconnect was on that single ground at the bottom... it would disconnect everything??

that eliminates one potential issue. Glad you got her running

sounds like adding a timer into the circuit might be a way around that..... or just a 2 pole toggle (and solenoids) to turn off equalizer and on pulser?

yeah have had same wonder.... yet then again the spendier versions of Solar Pulse Tech units I believe also had a balancer in them. And the more spendier also were Solar "charge" controllers and not just enough solar to run the pulse system

updated the attachments above.

hmmm.... interesting... looks like it is not alt. temperature like your pointing out.. but ambiant. Here is the temp compensation description on the 100amp dual volt from PDF on that model "..N3135* regulator used with these units also is negative temperature compensated. Setpoints are 28.0...

would that be the design intent on our Neihoff's alts though? Neihoff's are used in large rigs (military, coaches etc.) and none of them keep the battery in same compartment as the alt.

thanks... was curious about sensor. I didn't remember a sensor wire. Few folk who used the 200amp hummer alt have put the regulator off on a bracket because their orientation on the body hits a bracket or the block... I forget which.... thought that mayyy be an issue with temp sensing but...