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yep... WET= Lead Acid. It might be sealed Lead acid (no caps) but not AGM

side question.... how do these cool?? does the rear? fan push air thru the alt.... or does it suck cool air from front and blow the heated air out thru the fan at back of alt. ? Granted Im assuming that is a fan at the rear that shroud is protecting from... . for all I know its just a heat...

with a threaded coupler you would not need a post... you would bolt into the coupler to hold your cable. https://belmetric.com/steel-coarse-din-6334-3x-dia-hex-coupler-standoff-nut/?sku=NLONG4X12CLZ&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIxN_Hgcas-wIVCo_ICh0GYgdKEAQYByABEgJVnfD_BwE

If I recall right both the 100amp FMTV and the 200amp Hummer alts folk have used are temperature compensating alternators? Where is the temp sensor? Is it in the regulator and it just senses it by the temp via contact to the alt body it bolts too orrr?

K11 is a solenoid on the Power Distribution panel correct? if so.. how are you determining you have no power to K11?- by sound of it not clicking?? or did you measure voltage there?

ahhh ok.. yeah I recall that. Thought they were all suppose to have been removed by miliary already... guess not.

All good suggestions. What came to my mind was Brazing might be the key here but ya'll know more than I. This is what hit me: > put a nut on what is there then tig/braze that in place thru the center. > grind the top of nut to weld another on top on outside edges. > then tig/braze a tall nut...

Wafer fuse?

what kind of break? as in did stud break off with part of the stud still there.. orrr??

agree the initial intent was to compensate for additional load. Was under impression their addition also factored into the shock decisions. Could be (likely am) wrong though.

discussion seems there seems to point out that the reason the 2.5? inch shock he ordered works is because of the air bags theoretically acting as additional load/shock benefit. The other ones King made (but stopped?) for these trucks were larger diameter pistons??.. 3 or 3.5 if recall right.

was my understanding correct that in your and the other diagram the bottom battery is the 12v load battery?

that is from a post here on SS.... With the positive of the battery below it is already connected to that negative shown as the 12v pull out; it should work. So that makes the lower battery the 12v source.?? it is just attached indirectly. Ron apparently did the same thing in his as well...

The discussion thus far.... Discussions dont copy paste well. Edited this in a text editor very ruffly Jesse Felker This is the $2500 unit? Stan JeepNtreetop Author Jesse Felker no this is the regular dish that I cut the motor off and installed it into a new polycarbonate enclosure. Chris...

=AZUkHdvd39nXc2Efgnp2lvDj9co1r7F6ufpqghfLzlqz4FStxGY7yQux4pWtmR4PtprkpedkAJ562nL2MfxmPTYCNlienyovPjpjklvvhhs_H1jLfNl7HOmz5w6cNd-Sl-azUp4yQPmov5fIsKsGZSNS&__tn__=-UC%2CP-R']Stan...

just had same question asked in DM lol. passed this too him

Massive appreciate you doing your due diligence and checking out past threads and videos so you come in here with either solutions or "informed" question. Especially also not with "repeated for the millionth time question(s)". Keep it up. Your truck is in good hands.

on the braided .... make sure the line touches NOTHING and or add a coolant hose or something over the top as buffer. Braided hose can saw thru stuff it rubs against things is why.

can't help you on that one. Am not a mod or admin for that group