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Ok so this makes no sense. If the brown wire has tested good from the cluster to the alternator it has to have power at the alternator because you have power at the bulbs. It's a straight shot through the firewall to the alternator. Have you ohm checked the brown wire from the alternator to the...

All you need to do is test that brown wire at the cluster to the alternator. That will tell you if it's good or not. If it does not test good, go to the fuse block and test there. If that's good, go from the fuse block to the alternator. One of the 2 will give you the answer. Sent from my...

Ok so you don't have power on pin 1 on the double pin plug that goes to the voltage regulator. The brown wire. You have power to the red wire. You do that test with it not plugged in. You should have power at the brown wire with the key on with it not plugged in. That brown wire for gen one goes...

The ground is the voltage regulator in the alternator. The test in the sticky will tell you what's wrong with the system. Sent from my SM-S906U using Tapatalk

Ground comes from the alternator. The test in the sticky goes over it easy. Sent from my SM-S906U using Tapatalk

So having voltage on both sides of the gen light bulb means the ground isn't there. I use a PowerProbe to test those bulbs before I put the cluster back in. You can activate each bulb. It's not led right? They won't work in the gen lights. There's a sticky about testing the alternators in the...

If you have a burned up starter solenoid there's nothing you can do to get it to turn over with the exception of tapping it with a hammer...and that's an extremely short term fix. You'd have to replace the contacts in the solenoid to make it work again. I've done that with several of them and...

I found some at a body shop paint store in a quart size. I can't recall the brand off hand. Sent from my SM-S906U using Tapatalk

Only time I've had good luck getting paint to stick and not scratch off was heat. I started with a heat gun and got the panel hot then painted it right away. That worked pretty good but I found my oven goes down to 175 degrees so yeah...I put it in there with the door cracked for about 15...

I don't think I've ever done a pump where that shaft didn't fall down into the cover pocket. I always pop it out and cover it in grease. I hope it did stay up, though, because you probably bent the pump bolting it together. Thing is you'd really have to ramajammit in with the block bolts...that...

I guess it could be a pain finding standard threaded rod over there. I can get it at any farm store or parts store here in us...I'm not sure how you'll get around that since you need that bolt to hold the starter on. I see you're thinking about welding a bolt to the end...if you can weld really...

I got the answer to getting that steel line on...don't tighten the pump to the block...just start the bolts and start the steel line at the same time...get it screwed on almost all the way then tighten the bolts to the block. If need be I think there's a stud that holds the steel line tight to...

These dorman ones are viton. Used them many times. You'll still need the end caps though...2 of them one for each side. Sent from my SM-S906U using Tapatalk

It looks like the bolt you're pointing at is incorrect. It needs to have a stud sticking out of the end to bolt the bracket to. It could be that someone swapped it out not knowing it has to be there. All diesel starters have it stock, even aftermarket ones. I'm not sure where you're at but some...

Sounds like you got a sweet truck! I have small 24-volt solar on mine to keep the batteries charged up. Having a wire get hot when you put it under load can be frustrating. Think of the 24 volt starter power as a circle. You have the batteries and the one cable that hooks them together...then...

Take the wheel off and tighten this screw. Sent from my SM-S906U using Tapatalk

Where are you getting the starter from? Sent from my SM-S906U using Tapatalk

Did the wiper switch arm just pop off? It just pulls out there's not much that holds it in place but friction. If the lever just flops around then there's a screw to a bracket that probably worked loose and needs tightened...thats pretty common. Just pop the wheel off and see if it's just a few...

Not sure what you'd need. If everything works in the one you're taking out, it'll work in the one you're putting it in. If you haven't taken a column apart, do it with the old one first just so you can mess it up and learn. I replace the turn signal switches in mine when I have them out since...

Wow I didn't know you could charge batteries with that much power. Definitely do the big load for a short time than a low one for a long time. Sent from my SM-S906U using Tapatalk