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Guess we’ll have to agree to disagree. On an interstate in the mountains I want to be able to use the exhaust brake to manage speed on the down grades and in a truck easily capable of moving along with traffic, I don’t want to be in the slow lane with my flashers on going 35mph. I can always...

Yes, but it still pretty much redlines the engine and just isn't a very "drivable" behavior for civilian use as an off road RV that will see a lot of highway miles between the offroad explorations. My plan is to have the target gear set to 4th and then manually downshift from there when needed...

Agreed, the aggressive downshift to 3rd worked for the slower speeds the military operates the trucks at, but not for trucks with highways gears or Eco hubs being driven at highway speeds. This is why I’m going to have an Allison tech change the target gear to 4th. You can always manually...

That make sense from an operability standpoint. In mode the use is likely off road in slow, steep terrain, so you would want the exhaust break operable at lower speeds.

I have visible vapor coming from mine, most noticeable when the light is just right. My motor could still be wearing in, just coming up on 10k miles. For a medium duty diesel that’s not much. In the owners manuals for the Cummins powered rams it says not to use synthetic oils at less than 10K...

Thanks, that's where my oil level is, but I was referring to gases coming out, not oil.

Okay, can someone explain what exactly is being said in the Haldex unloader maintenance instructions that says "Apply M-R spec 2527 lubricant to the unloader seals forming a 9/16 diameter ball around around each seal"? That seems like a huge amount of lubricant if they are literally saying to...

From a post I made a long time ago in the ECO hubs thread. I highly recommend the settings outlined below. I know this is the Eco Hubs thread, but since we had some lengthy discussion here about my feelings that an exhaust brake was critical for mountain driving when you have Eco Hubs installed...

For you folks with C7 powered trucks, I'm curious how much blow by you see out the breather. Thanks

Thanks! It was a labor of love and very expensive, but I no longer feel like I'm driving a ticking timebomb.

Been waiting to have this fiasco behind me before installing the final touch on my HEUI system rebuild and engine restoration. Finally did this weekend.

Thanks. Yes, the surfaces are flat. I used copper coat on the cork gasket I made initially. I will install the other gasket I have and see if that fixes the issue. If not, then I'll try the copper coat. I ended up buying two kits due to a delay in shipping of the first kit. They were both...

Okay folks, truck is running like a Swiss watch and the issues with the compressor and relief valve on the air dryer are gone, but I need advice from the brain trust here. Surprisingly, the unloader cover is leaking all the way around its perimeter. I really thought the gasket above was going to...

Well, ultimately, I will have a habitat on the truck, so the current curb weight, which I know from having it on a scale, would be light compared to the finished build. Fortunately, a buddy of mine who is a fellow LMTV owner apparently knows the owner, or owners daughter at King. So hopping that...

I may remove the springs in the short term to quiet things down and limit the kidney punches from hitting bumps. So if I do that, I'll obviously measure everything. My build is going to be long and slow, so corner weights will likely be based on GVWR and associated other fuzzy math. I know King...

I'm planning on replacing mine with some custom King shocks. If someone could post the bushing centerline to bushing centerline, bolt diameters, and upper bushing width it would be much appreciated.

Ooops, accidental double post.

Yes, the CTIS lug nut are stupid expensive and you have to be patient to get them. You used to be able to buy them directly from Hutcheson, but they no longer deal with the public directly. They will refer you to one of their distributors, which are all military suppliers and thus are incredibly...

Okay, so yes, the valve body for the aluminum wheels uses two o-rings between the back of the valve body and the rim, photo below. The aluminum rim valves use the same internals as the steel wheel valve and the rebuild kits I have for them do not include the o-rings for the back. These kits are...

Sounds like you’re going to need those o-rings too then. I’ll look in the rebuild kits I have to see if they are included. Most likely are and valve rebuild kits are good to have, so you might want to pick up some. Typically cheap and easy to find.