Search results

Now that would NEVER have occurred to me!

I'm not trying to be a wise guy but the best thing you can do is avoid having to jump start it at all. Load test your batteries and clean all connections and keep them tight. Keep the alt. belts tight too. And don't forget the connection on the starter itself. A little time and work this time...

Good catch, I was thinking along the same lines. After all the pressure is the same then the stopping force should be the same IF all parts are equal. I thought he had installed the primary shoe in the rear position not both primaries on one side!

I know nothing about the after market wheel mentioned above, might work great for soccer mom and a grocery getter but for a real truck that that hauls fire wood or goes off road, nope, not for me! A good friend and I went wheeling years ago and he had a set of the old (new at that time) wagon...

Fuses may be good, but are they making contact? Also that fuel solenoid has to go thru the ignition switch, (before or after fuse IDK) . I'd start with the pink wire itself and check for voltage at that corroded spot first. Good luck, electrical gremlins can be a PIA!

Shocks do not carry any weight unless they are air shocks or have a spring mounted to them. All a shock does is absorb energy and thus stop the axle rebound. In other words it cuts out the 'sea-saw' effect when you hit a bump. Replace the springs AND shocks.

Your right, I have a DOD purchased K5 Blazer and it's far from a CUCV. First is it's red, second is the red velour interior and PW PL and power gate, lets not forget the 350 gas and the TH700R4. Nice truck but it's not green!

Bead blast and paint, probably your only choice.

I hope it didn't take till now to find that! :) It sucks when people ask and then never get back with the results. Thank you for coming back. I wonder who and why that filter was put there.

When you remove the springs and before sand blasting find a spring shop and take them in and see if they can make a set for you, it will be a much better ride and might be priced better then you think. As far as inspection, I'd never say a word about changing the springs and a little spray paint...

I see it say's for a 6.9, what is that? Not that I really care, but if they can't get the ad right I consider them suspect!

"One other problem is: I don’t know how or where to attach the Insulator Rod on the drivers side. I don’t know where it goes or how exactly to attach it. *Pics below" That rod is for the latch release and snaps into a retainer like CUCVUS showed on the backside of the inner handle, the clip is...

In your top pic on the left hand side is 2 rubber lines that screw into 2 aluminum lines, those are the engine oil cooler lines and they go across the radiator to the passenger side. If you decide to replace them be careful as the steel to aluminum causes corrosion and it's not hard to rip the...

I can't comment on the welds but why not make it adjustable AND instead of keeping it in the bed where it's in the way and rattling around make some brackets and bolt in the 'dead' space UNDER the bed? Yeah it would suck having to crawl under in the mud to get it but it would always be with you...

I doubt that! I've had many dealings with U-haul and have decided I will NEVER go back to them for anything! I've used Curt (or is it Kurt?) hitches and installed them myself, easy and cost effective. As a bonus the powder coating seems to hold up quite well on them too.

Never heard of that BUT with all the "will fit" parts and china crap out there I could see a master cylinder being out of spec enough that it could cause it to not release all the way. Would be odd but well worth checking! I'll file that thought away for future use (who am I kidding I'll forget...

My first guess was going to be the flex plate was cracked/broken, but it seems to be in the T case.

It's been a long LONG time but I believe it's the cab mounts (rubber part) that's different but the mounting points them selves are in the same location. Before using the 78 frame check the spring width, I think something changed there.

New after market repair panels are out there, including that rear beam and other supports. LMC is a big supplier and IIRC they now carry that rear beam, shipping cost will hurt!

Your driving it after sugar was put in the tank?