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If the pully is getting hot I'd start with making sure the belts are in good shape and tight. A loose belt will slip causing a squeal and heat, it can also glaze the belt making the condition worse. If in doubt get new belts (good ones).

We used this stuff when I started doing auto body work in 1983, I know of at least one car that I undercoated is still looking good and pretty much rust free. It was the bosses mother in laws and has since been passed down to a grand daughter and the only rust I saw was a bit just creeping up on...

You paid for a rebuilt tranny and have a warranty for a reason, use it! I know, I know I wouldn't be to happy about going back there either but money is money and business is business. Give them a chance to fix it before charging it back on your card. And NO it should not whine! When it gets...

If you don't already have it you will also need the switch valve, switch and wire harness all available from LMC. Almost forgot, a second sending unit. You seem like a well organized guy and probably already thought of all this, but if your like me you absolutely hate getting started and finding...

When the insurance adjuster comes out to look at it make sure he doesn't write it up as a civvie K5. It's going to be a 'total loss' but that just means that the repair is more than a fixed percentage of the value, what ever that is MAKE SURE THAT YOU CAN KEEP IT! It's a simple job repairing it...

Look around down there in junk yards, I know a guy up here that sells used gas tanks that he buys from down south. His business name is The Tank Bank so used is available. Other than that SPECTRA I believe is made in Canada.

Has the truck been converted to 12 volts? If so that would explain why the wires cut and twisted together.

I wouldn't worry about the fiber cap, just DA it smooth and prime and paint it you want it rough then use some Rocker Shultz and spray away. It's available in black, tan and I think white. Thinking about that I'd be tempted to spray the whole roof including the metal top with it, that way a year...

The only spar lube I use is some silicone spray for sliding windows, I use on the window channel felts and it helps them go up easier.

YOU DO HAVE THE BATTERIES DISCONNECTED, RIGHT? "What steps are required to open up the fuse box" your halfway there, just unscrew that single bolt in the center of the under hood plug and that separates all the under hood wiring from the fuse box. What I'd do isjust cut the 'hot' wire going to...

You didn't say if you had popped it into neutral while coasting, did the noise change?

Well the bad news is you only see about 25% of the rust, or that may be the good news? At this point you only have two options, 1 stuff scuff and spray it or #2 find a donor body in a junk yard and weld the 'new' roof on. #2 is by far the better choice but requires knowledge and tools you may...

Yeah, 3/8 bolts work just fine until they don't! I made that mistake many years ago, the 3/8 seemed to go in almost perfectly but not quite they had just a bit of drag right up to the moment they were almost tight and poof STRIPPED!

I too would pull the engine, if for no other reason then I HATE laying on my back drilling and grinding. But some folks don't mind. It would also be easier to find a welder to do the job if you can't weld cast.

It can be welded (usually) if you do, chances are you won't get it lined up perfectly for the starter to mount up. The 2 starter bolts might go in ok but the mount on the end of the starter won't fit properly. (That end bracket is probably missing and why the block broke, don't ask how I know)...

The weekend is half over now, how are you doing? I hope your running 17 (southern tier x-way) and not I 90. Speed limits mostly the same but much less traffic on 17 and you can travel slower and not get run over! Good luck.

Not sure if this will help but my after market tach picks up the engine RPM from the alternator, all it is is a small wire that runs into the back of the alternator thru one of the vents and attaches to any ONE (just one) of the positive diodes.

HAHA, Mister CUCV himself have a spare cucv part? The man has or have had almost as many CUCV as the army did!

Those bolts go into a floating plate, so if you can get in behind it and remove it then it's easy to drill them out or heat them up. You will not be able to hammer an extractor for two reasons 1 it's broken off to short and 2 hammer on it and you will drive the plate into the pillar and it might...

I hate to say it but it looks like your throwing money away on that thing. Unless you can find a donor truck (civvie cab will work) then I'd start parting it out. Even with the correct harness from Hillbilly there's just so much else wrong that you'd need to start from scratch. If it was mine...