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If it needs replacing then do it! Do not wait, these trucks don't steer worth a darn without the power nor do they have much braking ability without the PS pump.

ATF is about 10 weight oil (with anti corrosion additives) and the acetone is making it even thinner, I'd clean the tubes and remove any rust then grease the heck out of it.

I think the timing is already advanced all the time and when you plug it back in it's advanced to much. Like said above probably done for the turdblower. I'd leave it alone.

Love the Rusfre products, they also have an amber colored non drying product for inside doors, rockers, ectra that flows out great! When ever I replace doors I tape up the drain holes at the bottom and spray or pour some in the door and let set for a few minutes then turn on each side for a bit...

And I was just about to tell you DON'T PAINT IT OD!! Those things are hot enough here in NY summers, I can't even imagine having a non-AC equipped OD green Blazer in AZ !

I would at minimum drop the pan and look inside check for cracks and 'junk', while in there a set of bearings wouldn't hurt. At this point you might as well pull the heads and have them sent out (it needs head gaskets anyway) so now cut the ridge (if any) and hone the cylinders and install new...

Just a tid bit of info here, you mentioned replacing hoses. When replacing heater hoses do NOT twist the hose off the heater core! It will almost assuredly cause a leak in the core. Instead remover the clamp and then use a sharp knife or razor blade to slice lengthwise along the hose the just...

I think you totally misunderstood my meaning, or I may have not made myself understood and for that I apologize.

I grabbed a light out of a wrecked cop car, the switch is on the light itself and gives a choice of white or red LEDs, and it only cost a couple bucks.

Mounting on the valve cover studs does kinda ring a faint bell.

The hood brace kits don't fix a problem and they can be dangerous. The kinks are in a preplanned stress point, in case of an accident the hood bends up in the center instead of tearing loose from the hinges and coming thru the windshield and taking your head off! If you squirt some oil on the...

It's been a long LONG time since I had a 6.2 in a civvie truck but IIRC you are missing a short connecting hose between the filter housing and the resonator I also think that the metal mount went to studs on the exhaust manifold. But I could be totally wrong as it was many years ago.

All this^^ but i'd like to add one small thing, if you insist on using starting fluid don't just unplug the glow plugs make sure that they have cooled down!

Hmmn, I thought I brought that up in post #7:) I hope it's that simple!

This or the fuse is making intermittent contact with the spring terminals that hold the fuse in place. I've had some luck in cleaning and tightening them up but replacement is the best way to go. " I am confused as to why the 30amp headlight fuse is not popping? " the fuse only "pops" when the...

Check with hillbilly wizard (member on here)

Nice job! It's good to see it done that way instead of just hacking it out and leaving a bare edge.

First off when the Gov. ordered these they specified that no matter what production year it was made in it would use 1984 parts. I doubt this is the case but GM made a change in flywheels between 84 and 85 for 6.2L, perhaps they did the same with flex plates? What type of "machining" did you...

Ah, you could do it. All you need is a socket set a screw and screw driver and a drill. JUST MAKE SURE YOU DISCONNECT THE BATTERYS BEFORE WORKING ON THE DASH!

If you do use them you won't be sneaking up on anybody, they'll hear you coming a mile away! I'm all ready half deaf, I couldn't stand that tire howl.