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^^ This, could it be as simple as you reconnected the battery's wrong and when you "jump" it it's correct? Or a bad connection IN the wire, use a voltmeter and check voltage NOT just a test light for power. Start at the front battery and work thru them one at a time.

Sounds like you let the magic smoke out of the starter, once it's out you can't put it back just replace with a new or rebuilt starter.

I wouldn't take a tranny shops word on a bad engine, from the few spun bearings I've seen the engine locks up and dosn't continue to run at all. You said the converter is ok but did you check for cracks or loose bolts where the flex plate bolts to the crankshaft? I'd put money on that.

I second the glow plug guess, but thats all it is a guess! I did a bypass on a truck and that sounds like the HD switch that I used and about where I installed it.

Well short of looking it up in the TM's the dimmer switch is mounted ON the column and you don't have to remove it! Been awhile but IIRC a nimble person can replace it without lowering the column, the rest of us seems to have to remove the plastic bezel and the painted metal piece below the...

NICE!! great way to save a block, make your own threaded sleeve. Excellent idea and work. I've got a good engine with a broken starter ear that was welded back on just a tiny bit off, guess how I'm going to fix it?

AH! Never thought about a hummer as I never had anything to do with them.

Piggly Wiggly! They still around?

Hmmn, I thought the IP was 12volt even in the CUCV's, I'm not going out to check either.

Seems like a good price on the pump, I also like the fact that they don't charge an upfront core charge and give 30 days to send it in! Around here everyone bangs you hard for the core charge.

Nope, that was caused by getting high centered or getting picked up by a fork lift or a jack, I wouldn't worry to much about it as long as it doesn't hit the torque converter.

I thought for sure the Ins. Co would try to total it out! If they do keep reminding them that it's NOT just a Chevy truck but a MV that's worth a lot more!

Yup, members here just look around and you'll find em.

I managed to save a cab and a door after some firemen got carried away and bent the doors like that, the damage to the cab hinge piller wasn't to bad the hinges where shot and the doors frame needed a lot of massaging. Is the Rangers ins. co. paying for the damage?

Those al. lines are hard to come by but I bet CUCVUS and Hillbilly wizerd has more then a few available. For the next time.

Could be cheap bearings or could it be your tightening the belt to much? I've had a few CUCV's and some took different sized belts than the others, not much maybe 1/2"-1" but that can be the difference between a squeal and not squealing. I also had a civvie 6.2 that all belts I tried would wear...

It's a bit late to order a drain plug kit but NAPA might have it in stock, as far as the bushing goes it dosn't look familier but I'm no tranny expert, could be a FO waiting for the D FOD =Forgn Object Damage

I don't think I'd do that! To much chance that it would blow off or spring a leak and being that low on the tank you'd be out of coolant real quick, best to plug it with a plug or the sending unit that should be there and should work.

I was just on the LMC web site and saw a interior insulating kit for the floor all the way front to back, of course that means carpet or some kind of floor mats

Don't use undercoating, even 3M. I'd use a good two part bed liner sprayed on after degreasing and scuffing it. Much more durable than undercoat and it's chemically activated so you don't have to worry about heat softening it up. It costs more but with all your doing and the money you've spent...