Search results

[/FONT][/COLOR][/LEFT] I'd just make one from a piece of sheet metal, just make sure you slip a piece of rubber hose over the steel lines where they touch and are clamped to keep them from vibrating and wearing a hole through them. I speak from experience! You never leak out ATF when you have a...

Maybe the key to your statement is 700R4?? As far as the engine/trans bolts , I've only seen SAE used. Who knows what has happened to these trucks over the past 30 years!

I'd change nothing but I would continue to explore and investagate. As far as the batteries go pos-pos thats exactly how GM did the civvie 6.2 exept they had one alternater and put the second battery over on the drivers side of the radiator. Take a close look at the glow plug resistor, it may...

I had a lead clamp break on my Kubota and ran down to Advance auto parts and grabbed a replacement, I thought it looked a little odd, kinda to shiny. When I got back and opened it I found it's made of zinc instead of lead. It works but it's also junk!

When replaceing a bad tranny don't forget to flush out the cooler lines! Why pay all that money to end up just putting conaminents right back into the system? There's a couple different arasol cans of solvent that is easily hooked up the tranny lines and blown thru, just make sure you use a...

YEAH! That's it, thanks it's good to know I'm not completely senile!

Isn't there a plastic bushing in bracket mounted to the frame that the shift rod pivots in? I seem to remember some being like that and I think there might have been a spring in there too, but then again I can't remember ____ anymore.

I just let one go, it went to the first guy that looked at it and he didn't bat an eye at $4000. Maybe I should've asked for more but I'm happy.

Years ago I rebuilt the front end of my plow truck using mostly all dura last parts, tie rods, ball joints, ectra. That winter was a bad one for snow and I was pileing it up on a curb island in the parking lot I drove a bit farther than I thought and my front end straddled the 'y' shaped island...

I would've gone with Moog, but didn't know about the Mexico thing sooo.. Dura-junk never did much for because who wants to change whatever part every year or two for the next forever? Guess I'd be checking at NAPA.

Another place dust and water can come in is rusted thru vent behind the fender and below the cowl panel. Quite common up here in NY not so much in AZ! Up here they get clogged with leaves and then rust out.

I always just assumed the bracket was due to the weight of the starter, not so much for on the road driving but more for off road where bumps would cause the starter to bend/break the bolts or ear on the block. Seen both but never on one of mine.

That is KEY! So obvious I forgot all about it. Most counter guys will have no idea about a CUCV but have no problem with 84 Chevy. I have a couple of the local counter guys educated Re CUCV's

Sounds like you have some play in the the front steering and suspension, check out all joints like pitman arm, tie rod ends and king pins for play. It dosn't take much play in two (or more) componants to add up! Research DEATH WOBBLE and you'll find a lot of info, don't worry it's all fixable.

I bought a set of AC Delco off of Amazon and was surprised to find "made in China" stickers on them next to the AC Delco, could've gotten the cheap china no name for half price. I do have to admit that the fit wasn't bad, it did take a bit of tweking but NO LEAKS!

My 1008 was my daily driver for about 6 years, I've never tracked the mileage but when I got it had about45,000 mi on it and now has 112,000. It didn't take me long before I swapped out the TH400 for a TH700R4 and a little bigger tires!

Does anyone know the bolt size of the large "anchor" bolts that attach the seat belts to the floor? IIRC 3/4 or possibly 7/8 What about the size of the 4 bench seat bolts? 3/8"

I doubt that the stop had any thing to do with it but it's possible. More than likely it's just been a leak waiting to happen.

Broken/lost cotter pin on the shifter?

In the future when the fuel lines are dry try this This works best with a helper, a rag, compressor and blow gun. Remove the fuel cap and insert the blow gun into the filler neck and use the rag to seal it (you won't get a complete seal but don't worry) then pressurize the system a little, as...