Search results

If you changed the tank AND flushed the lines at the same time it has to be the fuel you are getting. Do you get it mostly at the same place? I never NEVER get fuel at small mom-pop type stations anymore, I had a bad tankfull from one once and that was enough. But the real question is why have...

Well if it just clicks some times and starts other times I'd be looking for a bad connection. Starting at the batteries I'd clean all the connections and terminals, then before hooking them back up I'd do the starter terminals and check to see if the solenoid is making a good connection. Chances...

Only time I've ever changed any of the cross pieces the bed was off and I flipped it up side down and ground the welds off and rewelded it that way, overhead welding SUCKS!! Have you ever had a red hot spark bounce down inside your ear canal, if so you know why I flipped the bed.

More than likely you'll end up having to use the AM' fits none' and that's where a hammer/dolly and snips come in handy. An English wheel ? Really CUCVUS I doubt that that anymore than 1 in 20 body men have the faintest idea of whet that is and even fewer know how to use it! It truly is a lost...

Easier than bondo or mat and resin, go to an auto paint supplier and get some Gel coat. Gel coat is what is applied to the mold before the fiberglass, gel coat is sandable and paintable and is available in some colors or even tintable. Its high build and easy to use and requires little surface...

A heavy dead blow hammer works good and rarely damages the wheel, could also try loosening the nuts and heat the wheel in the center.

A while back I saw some guy on fleabay selling OD green enamel, I don't remember much about it but it was decently priced and he said it's "the real deal" other than that I got nothing for you

Never had that happen but to center the wheel is easy, just loosen the lock clamps on the drag link and with the engine running and the wheels straight turn the adjusting sleeve until the steering wheel is straight. Don't forget to lock down the clamps!

Stupid question, are you sure the BO lights aren't working? If you've never seen them in use in the military then they may be on and you wouldn't even know it, to make sure check them at night and look in the 'cats eye'. Just hopeing thats all it is.

Yes , it bolts to the frame not the bumper.

This or a class 5, I would NOT use that bolt on one in the OP.

Check out a company called Auto vehicle Parts Co. or Au-Ve-Co for short they used to carry all that stuff and if still around I'm sure still do. Just took a look and the part no. your looking for is 15518 and is for GM door latch rods from 1964-up and come 25 to a box.

I believe that the 460LE is the newer comperized version of the 700r4, remember if I'm wrong this advice was free.

I'd be tempted to use a pressure washer and then replace the gauge cluster if nessasary.

That extra load on the 20 A fuse really shouldn't have tripped it, I'd replace the fuse with another 20A and see if possibly that old fuse was just 'old'. IIRC there are a couple of 12volt keyed take off terminals in that fuse block, tap one of them and use an inline fuse for the pump relay, the...

LET ME CLARIFY!! I am not a fan of welding on frames or welding brackets ectra to a frame. I've shortened and lengthened light and heavy truck frames but I also went to school for that. The shock brackets I mentioned welding had been cut off between the frame and shock bolt so was an easy...

I wouldn't worry about it,any type of thread chaser will more than likely do more damage then good. Like said oil and install.

I remember repairing two shock mounts years ago when I did body work, a FNG at a local muffler shop got happy with a cutting torch. Instead of cutting the bolt head off he cut the mount. I used a piece of steel about 2"x3" and about 3/16" , I drilled the 1/2"hole in it and used the mounting bolt...

Once again, why am I not surprised? Is there any CUCV/GM truck part you don't have?