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Thank you, Guyfang! This is very helpful information for me. I thought I had read that running a generator at idle would damage something, but I didn't know what it would damage and what speed / duration would cause it. I looked at the internals of the exciter assembly yesterday and didn't see...

Ok folks, I spent some time troubleshooting this MEP-006A yesterday, and I'm still stuck and in need of guidance. It starts instantly and will generate power as long as I hold the switch in the 'start' position, but if I set the switch to 'run' all of the AC gauges go dead and the engine...

I used 12' long 4x4's for the side frames, a 14' long 4x4 for the top beam, random 2x4's for reinforcements, ratchet straps to brace one end to the driver's side front tire, and a piece of 1/4" thick x 4" wide x ~2' long flat steel and a ratchet strap as the slide for the chain hoist. The chain...

INDIANA Indiana defines a Recreational Vehicle as the following: http://iga.in.gov/legislative/laws/2017/ic/titles/009#9-13-2-150 If your vehicle meets the above criteria, you have a police officer fill out a State Form 39771 to change the designation for the vehicle on the title from its...

As far as the box goes, if there was any kind of roof leak, plan on going in and taking out the wood floor if you are planning to fix the rust that it would have created. Mine didn't look too bad from the bottom, but I swept up 8 gallons of rust prior to cutting out all the sheet metal in the...

2StateTrigger, No I did not consider putting a 'normal' camper on the back, because I bought the M109 for the express purpose of making it into a camper. I only went with the 5 ton chassis because of how cheaply I was able to get a good one at the time. Otherwise I would have continued to build...

In the spirit of full disclosure, the vast majority of the driving that I've done in the camper on either chassis was on paved roads. I've always thought that taking it over too rough of terrain would be tough on the cabinets and other wood work. When it does go off road, I take it slow, and...

You're welcome! I'm glad we were able to get it working properly for you. I do believe you had everyone beat as far as generator noise goes! :whistle: The award for most annoying generator would still have to go to the folks on top of the hill who ran it 24/7 until it finally left Saturday...

Yep, I just had to get to a higher bandwidth connection before I could attempt a youtube upload. https://youtu.be/6xNSvc1OgxA https://youtu.be/vves11sdUak https://youtu.be/U4MmN3-V2Ig

I didn't take many pictures, but here is what I did get. It was a good time for sure!

The MRAP run flats in the 395's work just fine on the 5 ton combat wheels. That is what I run on my truck. I'm not sure if the Aluminum wheels use the same o-ring as the steel wheels, so I can't help with that part. The steel MRAP wheels use 5/16 cross section part number OR20TUA.

I've read the NHC250 thread, and I believe that situation is quite different from mine. I have had zero performance issues with this engine, and all of the internal engine components that I investigated reflected the same. I do have a pyrometer installed, and I take action when it gets above...

The subject of this post is my 1990 M923A2 with the Cummins 6CTA 8.3 engine. It was a 2009 "rebuild" at Kansas, including a tag on the front of the engine that says it has standard bore liners and standard size main / rod journals. When I bought the truck from GL in the fall of 2013, it had the...

I got the new yoke, new tin cover, and new seal installed last week, and I finally got a chance to drive it yesterday. I've got the usual grease specs on the axle from what was slung out of the slip joint in the driveshaft, but I don't see anything leaking from or dripping down from the seal...

After I saw this I went and looked up how they are installed and that's exactly what it looks like. I thought it was just some extra seal shield or something. I'd never seen one get installed so I didn't know what to look for. I've only found speedi sleeves installed on a couple things I have...

I worked on this leak again this morning and have what I hope is a positive update. I pulled everything apart again, and put a dial indicator on the pinion and it had no play. I couldn't even get it to register 0.001" travel when hitting it in any direction with a nylon faced hammer. So I don't...

I didn't put a dial indicator on it when I had it apart, but when I put the housing on without the yoke, I couldn't feel anything noticeable. Is there an allowable spec? I have looked through task 5-64 of TM9-2320-272-24-4 and didn't see a measurement for it.

I know the first post is long, but in it I mentioned that I have removed the spring style vent caps and replaced them with DOT air line tubing routed to a filter up next to the washer reservoir. I've verified that it is open. Thanks though.

Interesting, that's a trick I had not heard of before. I'll give it a shot next time I can work on the truck. I took it on a ~150 mile road trip this weekend and judging by the amount of oil under the truck and speckled on the back wall of the van body, it's not slowing down any. Thanks!

Thanks for your help, but I'm confident that's not it. There is zero groove on the yoke, and barely any polishing where the seal lips ride. You can still see the texture from the factory OD grind through where the seal rides. A yoke worn bad enough to have a groove could definitely cause leak...